Thread: lighten up some subs

Alan,

Are you just spamming this forum?

Originally Posted by Bennett Prescott

Alan,

Are you just spamming this forum?

Not a chance Bennett. With all do respect to most people on here, some times you just have to rely on your ears and not what parameters, graphs, impedence curves, so on,,,, tell ya. Everything I have listed as far as changing drivers for people have resulted in better sound and durability.

Liam asked for a good quality Neo driver, I think most would agree that Faital fits that bill. I'd like him to talk to Al at us speaker, great guy and has set me straight and led me in the right direction time after time. If Liam decides to buy from him or someone else thats up to him.

I forgot another box, buddy got 4 eaw bh800 with blown drivers. We had some old jbl 18's lying around, 2242? rings a bell, threw them in there, they sound fantastic, Running two 5k crowns on them.

Sincerlly
Me

Originally Posted by Evan Kirkendall

...Did you even read my reply?


Evan

Yes I did, that box is a rear loaded horn, not a ported box like the rest listed

Wow, I didn't mean to start a war.

Matt, your driver says 6 ohm... mine says 8 ohm. Huh?

Originally Posted by Alan Sledzieski

Yes I did, that box is a rear loaded horn, not a ported box like the rest listed

Eh. Not really. It's a front loaded 18 with a longer port. Just because the port extends deeper into the box, doesn't make it a horn. It's all marketing.


Evan

Originally Posted by LiamSmith

Wow, I didn't mean to start a war.

Matt, your driver says 6 ohm... mine says 8 ohm. Huh?

Liam,
It's a 6 ohm driver, but the horn loading raises the impedance to 8.


Evan

mine has the same call number's as matt except mine says its 8ohms... I understand the cabinet is 8ohm where the driver may be 6... but, I find it very strange that my driver physically says 8ohm. Strange, am I right?

Just get the OEM replacement. Will help them keep their resale value.

Originally Posted by Evan Kirkendall

Eh. Not really. It's a front loaded 18 with a longer port. Just because the port extends deeper into the box, doesn't make it a horn. It's all marketing.


Evan

Marketing, yourkville, hmmm, goes hand in hand with there power handling specs, which one to go by,, lol. Its definatlly not just a ported box, hell you can crawl up in the opening of this box its so big. I also replaced the drivers in the 608 yorkville, that is not front loaded, had great results.

Originally Posted by Alan Sledzieski

Guarentee you that al at us speaker will give you a better 15 to put in that box. Trust me call him I already did and said you will be calling. I would not think of putting a eminence back in that box.

I would not jump so fast.

i remember years (decades) ago when I attempted to do the same thing. A friend of mine had some Peavey W cabinets that had a square magnet stamped frame Eminance woofer in them. I was a big JBL guy at the time and insisted that he would be better off if he put a JBL 2225 in them. The best they had at the time.

So we did just that-put a JBL2225 in one anc then compared it to another one that had the Eminance.

No contest. The Eminance outran the JBL easily. louder-and deeper.

I was stunned. How could that be? I am quite sure in a front loaded design the results would be different. But the HORN (that is the KEY tha tyou seem to be missing here) was designed around that driver.

Just sticking in a "better" driver does not always result in better performance.

I know a number of people who have tried to "improve" on the Keele W design of many years ago with a single 18" driver JBL K151. Since that is a "bass guitar" speaker-people often think that by putting in a "subwoofer" driver the performance will get better. In most cases-not so.

Horns are a very different animal-and very driver specific. I would nto trust ANYBODY whos say they can just stick a "better" driver in a horn and get better performance. Especially a salesperson. Unless I had MEASURED data-no way.

I am not saying that you couldn't find a better driver for the cabinet-there are often a number of different drivers that can be used. But without SPECIFIC knowledge of which driver would work best-you are simply guessing and hoping at best-with NO evidence to back up any claims.

As others have said-swapping drivers in a front loaded box is generally no big deal-but that is not what we are dealing with here.

Originally Posted by Mark DeArman

Is the UCS1 the box with the Danley horn in it?

There is no Danley horn in any Yorkville box.

If you are referring to the Unity design that Yorkville uses that was licensed from Tom Danleys former employer-then it is important to realize the Tom did NOT design the horn-or the cabinet.

Yorkville simply licensed the technology and the Yorkville engineers did the design work.

If is often confused and people think that Tom Danley did the design and Yorkville sells it. Not so. They also assume that they are getting a "Danley" horn for a cheaper price. Well the price is cheaper-and the idea/concept is the same-but it was not designed by him.

The Danley Sound Labs products are mostly 3 way devices on a single horn-with different spacing and crossover design etc.

You also have to remember that the Yorkville design is based on the Unity design concepts-while the Synergy horns (Danleys current products) are superior to that older/origional design.

Yes they kinda look the same (in layout)-but there are a lot of "little things" that are different-and all those little things add up to better performance.

Originally Posted by Alan Sledzieski

Not a chance Bennett. With all do respect to most people on here, some times you just have to rely on your ears and not what parameters, graphs, impedence curves, so on,,,, tell ya. Everything I have listed as far as changing drivers for people have resulted in better sound and durability.

Alan,

When almost every other post in a thread is yours, and most of them are just one sentence or a link with no seeming connection whatsoever to the discussion, I call that spamming. May other members do as well. You are doing both yourself and the fine manufacturers you are dragging into this stream of consciousness description of some apparently random woofer swapping you have done no favors. This is not the highway, advertising your view the loudest and the most frequently will not get anyone here to buy into your theory. Many of the members, if you took a minute to notice, have a pretty good idea of what makes a woofer work in a particular application. Some of our members are extremely (and deservedly) well known designers, and you can bet your ass the ones who don't post do read.

Calm down. Make an effort to share some information that has meaning to a bunch of people who have never met you and have no idea of you can tell the difference between more SPL and distortion. I guarantee you that you'll see a very different response when you do.

Originally Posted by Alan Sledzieski

With all do respect to most people on here, some times you just have to rely on your ears and not what parameters, graphs, impedence curves, so on,,,, tell ya.

Alan, with all due respect to you........while our ears are important to the process, our ears are absolutely NOT reliable. There is tons of hearing research that demonstrates this, and even respected "golden ear" types in the industry will acknowledge this.

Certainly "if it sounds good it is good" applies sometimes, but your advice to the OP of this thread is very misguided. If you had a good grasp of the design of that particular sub and the properties of its horn, it would be quite clear to you that the original driver should not be casually replaced.

Additionally, changing the driver makes the cabinet no longer a UCS1, it becomes a DIY box. Bye bye resale value.

Originally Posted by Jeff Babcock

our ears are absolutely NOT reliable.

Audio Myths Workshop - YouTube

Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver

There is no Danley horn in any Yorkville box.

Thanks Ivan, for clearing that up.

Been a while. As I haven't had the time to worry about this and now I am running short on time I've been searching out suppliers for the OEM driver. It seems that its on backorder but I need something very quick.

I've contact eminence and they said the lab15 is essentially the same driver as the OEM yorkville driver. I may have found a decent deal on the lab15 and might grab that up.

So, just in case anyone wanted to know... the lab15 is a good replacement option for the yorkville oem driver. (at least according to eminence)

Lab 15 with a sensitivity of 88.5 db, this will be interesting, let us know how it works out.

Originally Posted by Alan Sledzieski

Lab 15 with a sensitivity of 88.5 db, this will be interesting, let us know how it works out.

The sensitivity number does not always "apply" when you horn load a sub. There are many other things to consider. A higher sensitivity driver does not automatically mean it will be louder-in a horn. It may be louder in a front loaded situation (which is where the number comes from)-but in this case, that is not where it is being used.

Look at the LAB SUB-that uses a pair of the LAB12" drivers. The drivers by themselves have a very low sensitivity (upper 80's if I remember). But when you put them in a PROPERLY designed horn (designed for those particular drivers), the sensitivity jumps WAAYY up. Like to the mid 100's.

Proper horn loading can be a very good thing.

What about buying a new UCS1s? At the same time order the replacement drivers from Yorkville (or a Yorkville dealer). And then in the end you have now doubled up your sub system!!!

Originally Posted by LiamSmith

I've contact eminence and they said the lab15 is essentially the same driver as the OEM yorkville driver. I may have found a decent deal on the lab15 and might grab that up.

The biggest thing you need to watch out for is... speaker mounting depth. The UCS1 sub is in a sealed chamber and it there wasn't much room to spare for anything larger.