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Maurice - it's not even a video, just the pdf on Neutrik's product page for that series of connectors: https://www.neutrik.com/media/11062/download/bda-114---speakon-nl4fx--nl4frx.pdf?v=1

Hi, I haven't checked if any of these are shallow enough but Troels Gravesen has a few well engineered centre speaker designs: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm

Was the unit sold as "not working"? If not, you may be best to send it back to the seller & demand a refund. Assuming you did buy it knowing it was defective, the first thing I'd do is check whether it's the amp or the actual loudspeaker driver that's at fault. That would involve taking the...

Your article was badly enough written that it looked like AI, is what I think Paul meant.

Hi Jeremy and welcome. You might get lucky and fine someone here with auto sound experience, but this forum is really about pro sound reinforcement more than anything else (ie PA systems for bands & corporate events etc). You might get more help at Diyaudio.com which I think has a car audio...

The only parts you have to buy are the mic & interface, the software is free (well donorware, so free to get started with at least). The Behringer ECM 8000 mic & UMC22 interface should be about a hundred £/€/$, then you just need a mic cable, one TRS jack to jack cable for a loopback connection...

OK, so Green is the response of the filter* without R2, showing a bit of a peak (ie High Q) before rolling off. Red is with R2, showing a more moderate response. * Note that this assumes a perfectly straight 8Ω impedance - real drivers will show deviation from this. Art, I don't think your low...

R2 will be adjusting the shape of the transition from flat to rolling off, aka the Q of the filter. Whether or not you need it (or a Zobel) depends on the driver's frequency and impedance responses, in-box. What model of 12" are you using?

Unfortunately, to know if that crossover is remotely well matched to your project, or if a Zobel will help, you really need the frequency response curve and Impedance curve of the drivers in your actual box. Room EQ Wizard (aka REW) is free software that can do both, and entry level measurement...

Interesting project. It might help to know what the amp is so people can check its spec's etc. I assume you've double checked that the amp's mic input is supplying the bias voltage on the right pins for the mic, per Shure's pinout diagram (Link) already. That apart, the only thing I see about...

I confess, I haven't used this model of desk so beyond re-checking what's in the manual, I've no other suggestions. Edit PS, there are probably more people with real experience of this desk over on ProSoundWeb, so it may be worth signing up & asking there too.

Yup, page 46 of the Owner's Manual refers. https://uk.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/4/325214/01v96i_en_om_c0.pdf Also, crosscheck the available prameters that can be assigned to the UKD's in the Reference Manual, p119-121...

Still, at least it makes mic'ing up the kit easy. I mean, your entire front line of vox mics just became the snare & OH's ;)

Well, if you've been able to put that extension in then it's worth a try as-is, for sure. That should drop the tuning to around 25.5Hz, so really, close enough to my 52cm estimate from earlier.

You don't want it as close as 1-2cm from the back wall, that will likely throw the tuning off and possibly cause it to choke up at higher volume. The rough rule of thumb is to keep the end of the port at least one diameter away from any other surface in the box to avoid problems like that...

Right, in that case you'll be better to get the tuning frequency down to the lower limit (or just below) of the range you'll use it in. That will allow more excursion with your normal program content without risk of excessive excursion from content lower in frequency than your tuning frequency...

All vented systems exhibit low excursion around the vent tuning frequency. In your case, 65l with a 10.1cm port ~36cm long means that's around 29-30Hz, so if those were the kind of frequencies you were testing with then you're seeing entirely normal results. Try testing with tones around 40-50...

It's available with or without.

The impedance spec is not the one that matters in this case. The two mics appear to have very different sensitivity specs, which is what you're discovering. The Shure is -66.5dB, whereas the JK Pro is -43dB. Assuming they're measured under the same conditions, the JK will produce ~23dB more...

Yamaha's manuals tend to be very comprehensive (to the point of being a bit intimidating to some) so if you have any patience at all, you'll be able to find it in there. Their product page also has links to video tutorials...