18sound 15LW1401 BR Build (+ other questions)

victor long

New member
Mar 31, 2019
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torino
Hello,

First please let me say, this is my first build. I did however spend A LOT of time reading online about various designs as well as checking out what was available second hand etc before continuing with this plan.
I am starting a new build with the Eighteensound15LW1401 drivers.

The final aim is to have 4x15" for subs and two tops of 2x10" + 1/4"
The later stages of the project considering adding a single 21 or some other infrabass enclosure but that's in the far future.
The build is taking place in Berlin, Germany.

Here are the key points to this project:
1) Low budget
2) Easy to transport and can be rigged/unrigged by singleperson
3) High pressure/high SPL - point of no mercy

The music that will be played through this system usually involves a lot of noise music: that means a lot of square waves and clipping signals from the origin of the sound as well as for more conventional bands playing heavy/extreme music (grindcore, sludge etc). There will be some electronic dance music played here too, but then it's mostly within the breakcore/speedcore and extratone field.

Now we're focusing only the bass enclosures. For the time being, we're using Yamaha DXR12 active tops, which have been proved to be almost indestructible for noise music. (Once we'll finish the tops as well they will serve as monitors).

We are using a Behringer DCX2496 for the system management and a T-Amp TSA 4-1300 to drive the subs which is the whole point of this whole thread.
Each channel of this 4ch amp that pushes 1220W at 8 ohms will be running a single driver.

So the first question would be:
Does it make sense to use it this way or should i use the amp in bridge mode which supposedly pushes 2x 4000W at 8 ohms and connect 2 15"s together? there are no values for bridged 4ohm output. Could that be too much for the drivers or the amp?
(page 34) https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/manual/c_218915_325986_325988_en_online.pdf

As this is our first build we are willing to go with a simple bass reflex design. Couldn't really find any other online calculators.
It doesn't show any extra bracing and/or room that will be taken by handles etc, but the driver should work well in even much smaller box, so shouldn't be a real problem. this will be crossed between 40 and 110

Just recently opened a d&b audiotechnik c sub, and there was only one corner which was angled 45 degrees and that was right under the driver between the port panel and the front panel. also it was damped only on top of the box. (any other suggestions regarding this?

I was thinking about using this type of plywood:
it's used as the bedding of trucks etc, so should eliminate the need of a proper paintjob or is it a wrong choice?

I am still considering if I should get aluminium edge protection or not. Corners will be covered of course.

Any thoughts, recommendations?

I would love to build instead proper folded horns, but that is way over my head. I was even very much tempted by the idea of building tham15's but that's still a bit too much in terms of build and size.

about the tops maybe we do another thread in the future.

anyone in berlin have more experience with builds and willing to recommend where to do my cuts? bauhaus has a cut service which is very pricey, and should be fine for this type of job but would love to work with someone else more passionate about the subject.

greets and thanks in advance!
 

Max Warasila

Graduate
Feb 20, 2013
1,132
34
48
Richmond, VA
I think it's certainly possible to use those panels for the construction of your speaker, however your joints will still need to be painted in all likelihood so it's kind of a pointless effort. Since you seem to be in the EU, just use Warnex instead - the stuff kicks but and I'm jealous that I can't buy it readily here! For the corners, I'd just round over and give an extra coat of paint. Plenty durable and much less expensive.

A front loaded ported design is a great choice for live sound. I'd personally go with a dual 18" design these days for maximum efficiency, but that's entirely up to you. I understand there are space constraints, but for raw output a dual 18" is pretty much unbeatable as far as SPL density goes.