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<blockquote data-quote="Jason Glass" data-source="post: 89520" data-attributes="member: 2167">Re: Name that tune! (Shure wireless mic &quot;pop&quot;)Have you&nbsp; made sure that the capsule is tightly screwed onto the UR2 body, and the contacts are still springy enough to make firm contact?Also, check all your RF cables for crushed spots, kinks, or tight bends.&nbsp;&nbsp; RF cable can test OK with a continuity meter but still be rendered&nbsp; useless for RF with those kinds of faults.I have twice had similar symptoms where the problem turned out to be a loose connector on the antenna, located inside the plastic cover on the end of the UR2.&nbsp; Admittedly, it would be very odd to see this on two different transmitters in your rig.It&#039;s easy to fix:Disclaimer: THIS CAN VOID YOUR WARRANTY IF YOU MESS IT UP, so don&#039;t mess it up, or don&#039;t try to do it if you&#039;re not mechanically inclined. :?~:-?~:???:(1) Remove the battery cover sleeve by firmly pulling it off.&nbsp; It&#039;s only retained by a rubber o-ring in a groove on the body.(2) Carefully pop off the plastic antenna cover, but don&#039;t break off the tabs.&nbsp; The plastic is flexible enough at room temperature, but maybe not if freezing cold.&nbsp; Pull it straight off, in line with the body axis, and DO NOT allow it to move radially (sideways) and damage the antenna inside.&nbsp; Be careful to not damage the power switch or the circuit board that it is mounted on, which extends about 1/16&quot; into the antenna cover under the switch.(3) Check the SMA connector that connects the cylindrical, helical antenna unit to the main circuit board.&nbsp; If it&#039;s not fully snug, a 1/4&quot; wrench fits the flats.&nbsp; Snug is fine.&nbsp; Don&#039;t reef on it and strip the threads or break the solder joints or PCB traces.(4) Reverse the above procedure to reassemble.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Jason Glass, post: 89520, member: 2167"] Re: Name that tune! (Shure wireless mic "pop") Have you made sure that the capsule is tightly screwed onto the UR2 body, and the contacts are still springy enough to make firm contact? Also, check all your RF cables for crushed spots, kinks, or tight bends. RF cable can test OK with a continuity meter but still be rendered useless for RF with those kinds of faults. I have twice had similar symptoms where the problem turned out to be a loose connector on the antenna, located inside the plastic cover on the end of the UR2. Admittedly, it would be [I]very[/I] odd to see this on two different transmitters in your rig. It's easy to fix: [I]Disclaimer:[/I] THIS CAN VOID YOUR WARRANTY IF YOU MESS IT UP, so don't mess it up, or don't try to do it if you're not mechanically inclined. :?~:-?~:???: (1) Remove the battery cover sleeve by firmly pulling it off. It's only retained by a rubber o-ring in a groove on the body. (2) Carefully pop off the plastic antenna cover, but don't break off the tabs. The plastic is flexible enough at room temperature, but maybe not if freezing cold. Pull it straight off, in line with the body axis, and DO NOT allow it to move radially (sideways) and damage the antenna inside. Be careful to not damage the power switch or the circuit board that it is mounted on, which extends about 1/16" into the antenna cover under the switch. (3) Check the SMA connector that connects the cylindrical, helical antenna unit to the main circuit board. If it's not fully snug, a 1/4" wrench fits the flats. Snug is fine. Don't reef on it and strip the threads or break the solder joints or PCB traces. (4) Reverse the above procedure to reassemble. [/QUOTE]

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