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<blockquote data-quote="Craig Hauber" data-source="post: 67916" data-attributes="member: 272">Re: The official shower complaint thread.One thing I&#039;ve discovered, that&#039;s not recommended by manufacturers, is to jack up the temperature on your tank-type heater.&nbsp; Less GPM used to maintain the same temp at the showerhead means the tank of hot water will last longer during a shower.&nbsp; Of course there&#039;s more risk of scalding and the recovery time on the tank is slightly longer.&nbsp; If you have small children it&#039;s probably not advised to turn it up too high either, but generally I&#039;ve found the initial factory setting is way too low.The tankless electric units aren&#039;t recommended (by factory) for use at the latitude where I&#039;m currently working on some houses.&nbsp; They recommended cascading 2 of them -which would mean an unreal amount of power draw and about $1800 worth of heater!&nbsp; A basic large tank unit and insulated pipes is far more practical.&nbsp; (I&#039;m actually going to look into a recirculating type system as I have all the walls opened-up)&nbsp; Minimizing elbows and excessive valves, avoiding long thin lines and careful planning of routing and fixture priority can really help with pressure drop issues even with crappy supply pressure.&nbsp; You can essentially eliminate the toilet-flush freeze/scald blast from an operating shower.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Craig Hauber, post: 67916, member: 272"] Re: The official shower complaint thread. One thing I've discovered, that's not recommended by manufacturers, is to jack up the temperature on your tank-type heater. Less GPM used to maintain the same temp at the showerhead means the tank of hot water will last longer during a shower. Of course there's more risk of scalding and the recovery time on the tank is slightly longer. If you have small children it's probably not advised to turn it up too high either, but generally I've found the initial factory setting is way too low. The tankless electric units aren't recommended (by factory) for use at the latitude where I'm currently working on some houses. They recommended cascading 2 of them -which would mean an unreal amount of power draw and about $1800 worth of heater! A basic large tank unit and insulated pipes is far more practical. (I'm actually going to look into a recirculating type system as I have all the walls opened-up) Minimizing elbows and excessive valves, avoiding long thin lines and careful planning of routing and fixture priority can really help with pressure drop issues even with crappy supply pressure. You can essentially eliminate the toilet-flush freeze/scald blast from an operating shower. [/QUOTE]

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