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60 Degree DIY Mid Hi

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  • Originally posted by Justin Abrahams View Post
    Hi Jason,

    So, meaning you're using a full baffle then? Instead of having a top & bottom baffle piece, correct? What's the overall depth of your box (assuming you extended it a bit to clear the front of the horn)?

    What methods are you all finding to successfully mount grills without resulting in any buzzing at high output levels? What grill material are you pleased with/finding easy to work with. I've only used the square hole grills from PE for subs so far.
    Full grill one piece. Just used a removable piece of ply where the horn meets to screw grill onto in the center. Normal grill nothing fancy with some audio foam behind it to match my subs..

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by Jason Joseph; 05-05-2017, 09:21 AM.


    • Originally posted by Justin Abrahams View Post
      Regarding horn mounting, it looks as though the plans are suggesting the XT1464 side mounting holes land right at the edge of the baffle/sidewall. Is there enough meat on the baffle at this area to prevent tear-out or have modifications to the box's width been made? Are you using threaded inserts here or using a different method?

      Mark (and others who have built a removable/interchangeable horn/baffle system), if you are still willing to share those details (here or PM is fine. I can give you my email, if that's even easier), I'd love to learn as much info about it, as that is something I'm really looking forward to trying.

      For those who have built most of the box (including sides) out of 15mm, where did you find the most benefit in bracing (aside from the standard top & bottom brace near the horn mouth and between the baffle exit and back of the enclosure? Im considering spacing two 13mm braces equally vs one 15mm down the middle. This would prevent cutting the bottom brace to clear the pole mount, but would that bracing be excessive?

      I've been reading the mounds of valuable information in this thread from the sidelines for a while. And I can't thank you all enough for the wealth of knowledge you've shared. From design & flying ideas, to tuning, and next level hardware/software ideas and beyond. Thanks to those who have and continue to share — your willingness and selflessness don't go unnoticed. Cheers to you!

      Hi Justin, I'll fill you in what i did re interchangeable horns, but I have to say I wouldn't do it again. It took way too much nitty gritty engineering, and several tries getting pieces perfectly exact (each box has its parts that need to stay matched). And then final pain, was having gasketing that worked... the 12"s can really move some air. I think it wouldn't be that much harder to just build more boxes....
      If you still want to give it a go, lemme know and I'll post some picts....

      FWIW, re box width, I like it just wide enough to let the XT1464 sit completely inside the walls...for the reasons you asked about.
      I used 15mm for sides and no additional bracing beyond Peter/Don's plan. Your two 13mm would solve the pole mount, huh..


      • I'm looking to build a system with 2 - DIY 90 and 4 Keystone subs for live bands. I'm not capable of testing and tuning the system myself at this time. I've read through the whole thread a couple times, and it seems like it shouldn't be too hard to put together a great sounding rig for larger venues and small festival gigs.

        I just messaged Max about a couple of flat packs. If that doesn't work, I have a local cabinet maker that will cut everything for me for the DIYs and Keystones. I plan on using 8 ohm 12s and tri amping the DIYs with an NU4-6000 on each cabinet using a DCX2496 for DSP. I can run the Keystones 2 per NU4-6000 as well. 2 DIYs and 4 Keystones with 1 DCX2496 (mono) and 4 NU4-6000.

        I have been thinking of going with an all powered Turbosound iQ rig, but it wouldn't be anywhere close to the performance of this rig if I could get it tuned properly.

        So am I crazy?

        Should I go mini DSP and get files from someone?

        Would I be better off using the passive crossover on the HF/VHF and running it off the other 2 channels (bridged) of the NU4-6000?


        Thanks for your time gentlemen,



        • This may be of interest - BMS HE drivers


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