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Low Earth Orbit
DIY Audio
60 Degree DIY Mid Hi - AKA PM60
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<blockquote data-quote="Peter Morris" data-source="post: 141427" data-attributes="member: 652"><p>Re: 60 Degree DIY Mid Hi</p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">My 2c worth ...</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"></span></span></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">1) </span></span><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">Ply wood thickness – 15mm or 16mm would work provided there is enough bracing.</span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">2) </span></span><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">Exterior width to match XT1464 or plus a bit … 0 to 6 mm any more than that the box starts to look too big.</span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">3) </span></span><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">455mm is as deep as I would go. If you set the horn back 30mm you can always cut a bit off (15mm) the front depending on how you do the grills.</span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">4) </span></span><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">“<em>baffles. Right now, I'm thinking 15mm ply routed out 6mm, with a 6mm spacer ring</em>” that would be a good compromise, alternatively make the baffle thicker (18mm) and route 10mm to 12 mm </span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">5) </span></span><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">“<em>Corners....make the box square for simplicity and let any brave souls lop off corners” </em>agree, and don’t forget to take all the screws out. It looks much better, smaller and more professional with the corners cut off, and slightly lighter. The corner piece only needs to be 12mm because the span is so short. </span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">6) </span></span><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'">I would also make the top, bottom and back all the some width – easy to cut out and assemble.</span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Peter Morris, post: 141427, member: 652"] Re: 60 Degree DIY Mid Hi [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]My 2c worth ... 1) [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]Ply wood thickness – 15mm or 16mm would work provided there is enough bracing.[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]2) [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]Exterior width to match XT1464 or plus a bit … 0 to 6 mm any more than that the box starts to look too big.[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]3) [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]455mm is as deep as I would go. If you set the horn back 30mm you can always cut a bit off (15mm) the front depending on how you do the grills.[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]4) [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]“[I]baffles. Right now, I'm thinking 15mm ply routed out 6mm, with a 6mm spacer ring[/I]” that would be a good compromise, alternatively make the baffle thicker (18mm) and route 10mm to 12 mm [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]5) [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]“[I]Corners....make the box square for simplicity and let any brave souls lop off corners” [/I]agree, and don’t forget to take all the screws out. It looks much better, smaller and more professional with the corners cut off, and slightly lighter. The corner piece only needs to be 12mm because the span is so short. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]6) [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma]I would also make the top, bottom and back all the some width – easy to cut out and assemble.[/FONT][/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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