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Low Earth Orbit
DIY Audio
60 Degree DIY Mid Hi - AKA PM60
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<blockquote data-quote="Bennett Prescott" data-source="post: 148320" data-attributes="member: 4"><p>Re: 60 Degree DIY Mid Hi</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I always suggest that a real long term thermal limiter is set at 1/2 the AES power rating of the transducer. In this case, 200 W. A lot of users find that pretty hard to take, since they have an amplifier that can deliver 1-2KW and are pretty invested in the power handling of their woofer having something to do with its acoustic output. There's a connection, and in the short term you can put a lot more "power" in, but in the very long term you have to pretend you're powering a toaster, or a resistor... you just need to keep input below its thermal capacity. That's why these limiters have attack times in seconds, or even tens of seconds. Unfortunately we have decided to talk about loudspeaker power input in watts and then divorce that from any concept of wattage that a physicist or an electrician would understand. Actually an electrician would understand it just fine, if you look at the trip times for household circuit breakers. The wires in your walls can handle a certain amount of heat before they become a fire hazard, so your breakers are designed to limit them below that. A 12AWG wire can pass hundreds of amps for a few seconds before getting too hot, just like a 3" voice coil can pass thousands of watts for a few seconds. Long term, though, like half an hour long term, 1/2 AES is a limit that will keep your speaker from overheating.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]154543[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bennett Prescott, post: 148320, member: 4"] Re: 60 Degree DIY Mid Hi I always suggest that a real long term thermal limiter is set at 1/2 the AES power rating of the transducer. In this case, 200 W. A lot of users find that pretty hard to take, since they have an amplifier that can deliver 1-2KW and are pretty invested in the power handling of their woofer having something to do with its acoustic output. There's a connection, and in the short term you can put a lot more "power" in, but in the very long term you have to pretend you're powering a toaster, or a resistor... you just need to keep input below its thermal capacity. That's why these limiters have attack times in seconds, or even tens of seconds. Unfortunately we have decided to talk about loudspeaker power input in watts and then divorce that from any concept of wattage that a physicist or an electrician would understand. Actually an electrician would understand it just fine, if you look at the trip times for household circuit breakers. The wires in your walls can handle a certain amount of heat before they become a fire hazard, so your breakers are designed to limit them below that. A 12AWG wire can pass hundreds of amps for a few seconds before getting too hot, just like a 3" voice coil can pass thousands of watts for a few seconds. Long term, though, like half an hour long term, 1/2 AES is a limit that will keep your speaker from overheating. [ATTACH=CONFIG]154543.vB5-legacyid=14182[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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60 Degree DIY Mid Hi - AKA PM60
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