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Low Earth Orbit
DIY Audio
60 Degree DIY Mid Hi - AKA PM60
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<blockquote data-quote="Max Warasila" data-source="post: 209205" data-attributes="member: 3845"><p>The simplest way to do this is to keep all of the dimensions the same, and just not build the dado joints on the left/right panels. You'll end up with a slightly wider box, but not significantly so. If you want the exact same size, subtract 12mm from the width of each of the internal baffles. The recommended changes for a garage environment that I thought up when designing this were:</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Subtract 12mm from the horizontal axis of each of the sandwiched baffles, top, bottom, and back pieces. Per piece notes are:<ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">On the horn baffle, it may be necessary to pay careful attention to the 60 degree horn width, as the T-nuts on the sides may not have sufficient clearance when the baffle is shrunk. It should be fine, but I don't remember checking.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">For the main vertical brace, be sure to maintain enough space for the horn and 4594HE to fit through.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">For the ported baffles, be sure to keep the 60mm holes slightly away from the walls to prevent a boundary effect that lowers tuning (not the end of the world).</li> </ol></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Subtract 12mm from the vertical axis of the sides and back pieces.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">For the horn braces, just do what works best for your skill level. They do need to be there, but their exact form is not specified. Peter Morris can comment on changes in horn geometry.</li> </ol><p>I'm getting this 12mm number from the fact that all pockets/dadoes are 6mm deep. As always, these are just recommendations, and I encourage you to make your cabinet your own. The bracing I've demoed here is just easy to cut from scrap, and can certainly be changed/optimized. I'm a computer engineering student rather than a mechanical engineering student, after all.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>This is something I wouldn't recommend doing that kind of change willy nilly, depending on how closely you're following the design. While it will work fine if you're not doing pockets, making the change you're suggesting changes the geometry of the piece and could lead to parts not fitting in pockets.</p><p></p><p>Happy DIY, all!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Max Warasila, post: 209205, member: 3845"] The simplest way to do this is to keep all of the dimensions the same, and just not build the dado joints on the left/right panels. You'll end up with a slightly wider box, but not significantly so. If you want the exact same size, subtract 12mm from the width of each of the internal baffles. The recommended changes for a garage environment that I thought up when designing this were: [LIST=1] [*]Subtract 12mm from the horizontal axis of each of the sandwiched baffles, top, bottom, and back pieces. Per piece notes are: [LIST=1] [*]On the horn baffle, it may be necessary to pay careful attention to the 60 degree horn width, as the T-nuts on the sides may not have sufficient clearance when the baffle is shrunk. It should be fine, but I don't remember checking. [*]For the main vertical brace, be sure to maintain enough space for the horn and 4594HE to fit through. [*]For the ported baffles, be sure to keep the 60mm holes slightly away from the walls to prevent a boundary effect that lowers tuning (not the end of the world). [/LIST] [*]Subtract 12mm from the vertical axis of the sides and back pieces. [*]For the horn braces, just do what works best for your skill level. They do need to be there, but their exact form is not specified. Peter Morris can comment on changes in horn geometry. [/LIST] I'm getting this 12mm number from the fact that all pockets/dadoes are 6mm deep. As always, these are just recommendations, and I encourage you to make your cabinet your own. The bracing I've demoed here is just easy to cut from scrap, and can certainly be changed/optimized. I'm a computer engineering student rather than a mechanical engineering student, after all. This is something I wouldn't recommend doing that kind of change willy nilly, depending on how closely you're following the design. While it will work fine if you're not doing pockets, making the change you're suggesting changes the geometry of the piece and could lead to parts not fitting in pockets. Happy DIY, all! [/QUOTE]
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