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<blockquote data-quote="Art Welter" data-source="post: 42839" data-attributes="member: 52">Re: &quot;Box in box&quot; speaker designs?Kristian,The Kangaru approach is easy to do in concept, as most bass reflex sub cabinets have plenty of room to hide a top cabinet inside.The devil is in the details, all the felt guides, a latching system that does not rattle and is airtight, that type of stuff increases the complexity of the build and set up time.Back about 1994 I built four ported 15&quot; with removable bottoms, two 10&quot; &amp; tweeter top cabinets could fit in each.The bottom used a weather gasket around the perimeter, the weight of the cabinet and tops made for a good seal.Made for a heavy cabinet when loaded.Going back to Minneapolis in the 1970s, there was a fairly popular front horn design by Steve Hall, Mike Justin named it the &quot;Cruncher&quot;.The Cruncher was a two part cabinet, the compression chamber and the horn, many bands filled the horns with monitors, lights or whatever would fit. Same thing happened with W bins.Tapped horns are chock full of wood inside, there is not an adequate area to put a decent size top in.The ultimate would be a telescoping bass reflex design with an interior linear actuator, plug it in and the small cabinet would grow in volume by a factor of four (more or less) and elevate the top cabinet portion above head height. This type of design could actually reduce the whole package to about half the size of a normal ported sub. It would look kind of like the Empire State building :^).That said, used equipment prices being what they are, the most cost effective approach would be to buy used subs, make a hatch, and fit the top speaker in...Art</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Art Welter, post: 42839, member: 52"] Re: "Box in box" speaker designs? Kristian, The Kangaru approach is easy to do in concept, as most bass reflex sub cabinets have plenty of room to hide a top cabinet inside. The devil is in the details, all the felt guides, a latching system that does not rattle and is airtight, that type of stuff increases the complexity of the build and set up time. Back about 1994 I built four ported 15" with removable bottoms, two 10" & tweeter top cabinets could fit in each. The bottom used a weather gasket around the perimeter, the weight of the cabinet and tops made for a good seal. Made for a heavy cabinet when loaded. Going back to Minneapolis in the 1970s, there was a fairly popular front horn design by Steve Hall, Mike Justin named it the "Cruncher". The Cruncher was a two part cabinet, the compression chamber and the horn, many bands filled the horns with monitors, lights or whatever would fit. Same thing happened with W bins. Tapped horns are chock full of wood inside, there is not an adequate area to put a decent size top in. The ultimate would be a telescoping bass reflex design with an interior linear actuator, plug it in and the small cabinet would grow in volume by a factor of four (more or less) and elevate the top cabinet portion above head height. This type of design could actually reduce the whole package to about half the size of a normal ported sub. It would look kind of like the Empire State building :^). That said, used equipment prices being what they are, the most cost effective approach would be to buy used subs, make a hatch, and fit the top speaker in... Art [/QUOTE]

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