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Low Earth Orbit
DIY Audio
Cabinet bracing
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<blockquote data-quote="Craig Hauber" data-source="post: 66893" data-attributes="member: 272"><p>Re: Cabinet bracing</p><p></p><p>You're a generation ahead of me, I'm still using some S & SH series boxes. Yes they were a bit heavier built I found but adding bracing to stiffen panels and some tension members between panels helped considerably. </p><p>I think they built the boxes out of a higher-grade OSB flake-board type panel they called "Road Wood" or something like that. (Is isn't quite like the crap you can get at Lowe's Depot so maybe it was custom-spec)</p><p>Re-enforcing around driver circles, handle and input holes helped too. Damping down the horn lenses as well as the plastic handle cups really helped also. (used an auto-sound stick-on sheet product for this) </p><p>Upgrading the "crossovers" (bi/tri-amping with DSP) made the most difference though. However ordering a new passive unit from a current model of similar type (12" & 1") worked quite well for those throw-and-go smaller shows</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Craig Hauber, post: 66893, member: 272"] Re: Cabinet bracing You're a generation ahead of me, I'm still using some S & SH series boxes. Yes they were a bit heavier built I found but adding bracing to stiffen panels and some tension members between panels helped considerably. I think they built the boxes out of a higher-grade OSB flake-board type panel they called "Road Wood" or something like that. (Is isn't quite like the crap you can get at Lowe's Depot so maybe it was custom-spec) Re-enforcing around driver circles, handle and input holes helped too. Damping down the horn lenses as well as the plastic handle cups really helped also. (used an auto-sound stick-on sheet product for this) Upgrading the "crossovers" (bi/tri-amping with DSP) made the most difference though. However ordering a new passive unit from a current model of similar type (12" & 1") worked quite well for those throw-and-go smaller shows [/QUOTE]
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