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Custom DIY Workboxes
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<blockquote data-quote="Brian Bolly" data-source="post: 31669" data-attributes="member: 32"><p>Re: Custom DIY Workboxes</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I would vote for skinny and deep drawers, so that you can make the front door hinged with a table that sits IN the door (see below). But, with regards to how they drawers are loaded think about the dimensions below.</p><p></p><p>+22.5" outside width</p><p>- 1" assuming 1/2" case construction</p><p>- 1" for slides @ 1/2" width each</p><p>- 1" figuring 1/2" ply for drawer construction</p><p>----------------------</p><p> = 19.5" width interior of each drawer.</p><p></p><p>+30" outside depth</p><p>- 1" assuming 1/2" construction</p><p>- 5" of a door/lid </p><p>- 1" figuring 1/2" ply for drawer construction</p><p>--------------------- </p><p>= 23" depth interior of each drawer</p><p></p><p>+45 (9" drawer interior height x 5)</p><p>+2.5" (1/2" ply for drawer bottom x5)</p><p>+0.75" (0.125" space above/below each drawer)</p><p>+1" assuming 1/2" construction</p><p>+0.75" for a caster plate</p><p>+5.25" for 4" dia. casters</p><p>-----------------</p><p>= 55.25" overall height for the case</p><p></p><p>So a drawer that's 19.5" x 23" x 9" which is a BIG drawer, and loaded with cables it will be pretty damn heavy. And if you go with 3/8" construction the interior dimensions of the drawer will be even bigger. The drawer slides that P/E sells are 77 lb/pr load capable, and although TCH has 100lb/pr and 250lb/pr slides, how heavy do you want to make this workbox? </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I'd make it so the table rides IN the door instead of having the table BE the door. This way your door is on hinges and the workbox can be shut (and locked, if need be) and you can still have a work table. Take a look at these guys for table ideas. Basically the lid just needs to be deep enough to accommodate table legs. <a href="http://www.olycase.com/trunks-workboxes.html" target="_blank">http://www.olycase.com/trunks-workboxes.html</a> </p><p></p><p>If you look at the black workbox, imagine that door minus the 3 shelves in the middle. The table fits such that you load it into the door towards the top first, and then it sits on the bottom of the door. The table is probably 1-2" shorter than the interior height of the door so that it can slide in and rest against that upper brace while being held in place with that lower L-shaped piece of aluminum. So you still end up with a table that's about 20"W x 48"L.</p><p></p><p>Penn-Elcom has a nice telescoping table leg assembly (P/N 9967) that would work well for anything between a desk that you could sit down at to a tall guitar workstation.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brian Bolly, post: 31669, member: 32"] Re: Custom DIY Workboxes I would vote for skinny and deep drawers, so that you can make the front door hinged with a table that sits IN the door (see below). But, with regards to how they drawers are loaded think about the dimensions below. +22.5" outside width - 1" assuming 1/2" case construction - 1" for slides @ 1/2" width each - 1" figuring 1/2" ply for drawer construction ---------------------- = 19.5" width interior of each drawer. +30" outside depth - 1" assuming 1/2" construction - 5" of a door/lid - 1" figuring 1/2" ply for drawer construction --------------------- = 23" depth interior of each drawer +45 (9" drawer interior height x 5) +2.5" (1/2" ply for drawer bottom x5) +0.75" (0.125" space above/below each drawer) +1" assuming 1/2" construction +0.75" for a caster plate +5.25" for 4" dia. casters ----------------- = 55.25" overall height for the case So a drawer that's 19.5" x 23" x 9" which is a BIG drawer, and loaded with cables it will be pretty damn heavy. And if you go with 3/8" construction the interior dimensions of the drawer will be even bigger. The drawer slides that P/E sells are 77 lb/pr load capable, and although TCH has 100lb/pr and 250lb/pr slides, how heavy do you want to make this workbox? I'd make it so the table rides IN the door instead of having the table BE the door. This way your door is on hinges and the workbox can be shut (and locked, if need be) and you can still have a work table. Take a look at these guys for table ideas. Basically the lid just needs to be deep enough to accommodate table legs. [url]http://www.olycase.com/trunks-workboxes.html[/url] If you look at the black workbox, imagine that door minus the 3 shelves in the middle. The table fits such that you load it into the door towards the top first, and then it sits on the bottom of the door. The table is probably 1-2" shorter than the interior height of the door so that it can slide in and rest against that upper brace while being held in place with that lower L-shaped piece of aluminum. So you still end up with a table that's about 20"W x 48"L. Penn-Elcom has a nice telescoping table leg assembly (P/N 9967) that would work well for anything between a desk that you could sit down at to a tall guitar workstation. [/QUOTE]
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