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<blockquote data-quote="Ivan Beaver" data-source="post: 137995" data-attributes="member: 30"><p>Re: dB calculations</p><p></p><p></p><p>I will agree that either approach will work-AS LONG AS the reader knows how the test was being done.</p><p></p><p>I could see a "creative engineer or marketing guy" using the 1 watt number-but on a speaker that has a "higher than normal" impedance for the rating, and figuring out the average impedance across the freq band-then using the voltage to get 1 watt and it being higher than say 2.8V. So the user "thinks/assumes" that it is at 2.83V for the 8 ohm rated box, but the drive voltage for the graph may actually be higher-giving the impression it is louder than it really is.</p><p></p><p>Another reason for using the same drive level (2.83V) is that is exactly the test that people do when they simply move a cable from one box to another to see which on has the higher sensitivity.</p><p></p><p>As with other things-there is a whole list of "games" that can be played to "suck people in", but in the end-it comes down to what does it sound like when turned up, and how loud can it get before "crapping out sonically". </p><p></p><p>But I have not seen any spec sheets on that. I have thought about some ways to do it, but different people have different standards of "crapping out" and there could be all sorts of ways to get around it.</p><p></p><p>But I would be open for that sort of test-AS LONG AS everybody used the same testing procedure.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ivan Beaver, post: 137995, member: 30"] Re: dB calculations I will agree that either approach will work-AS LONG AS the reader knows how the test was being done. I could see a "creative engineer or marketing guy" using the 1 watt number-but on a speaker that has a "higher than normal" impedance for the rating, and figuring out the average impedance across the freq band-then using the voltage to get 1 watt and it being higher than say 2.8V. So the user "thinks/assumes" that it is at 2.83V for the 8 ohm rated box, but the drive voltage for the graph may actually be higher-giving the impression it is louder than it really is. Another reason for using the same drive level (2.83V) is that is exactly the test that people do when they simply move a cable from one box to another to see which on has the higher sensitivity. As with other things-there is a whole list of "games" that can be played to "suck people in", but in the end-it comes down to what does it sound like when turned up, and how loud can it get before "crapping out sonically". But I have not seen any spec sheets on that. I have thought about some ways to do it, but different people have different standards of "crapping out" and there could be all sorts of ways to get around it. But I would be open for that sort of test-AS LONG AS everybody used the same testing procedure. [/QUOTE]
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