Log in
Register
Home
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Featured content
New posts
New profile posts
Latest activity
News
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Features
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search titles only
By:
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Install the app
Install
Reply to thread
Home
Forums
Off Topic
The Basement
High output subwoofers.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Ivan Beaver" data-source="post: 90358" data-attributes="member: 30"><p>Re: High output subwoofers.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Swapping out a mid is an entirely different animal. Things like impedance-freq response-phase response-sensitivity can make a huge difference in how the cabinet performs with a different driver.</p><p></p><p>Now if you are only talking about using "presets" then I do agree-it can be pretty hard to just throw in a different cabinet and have it work as well. But I still hold by my statement-HOW WAS THE SUB DESIGNED TO WORK WITH THE TOP? It is just the DSP settings that allow that to happen-the actual sub design has little to nothing to do with it.</p><p></p><p>As far as having subs that are flat to 25 or 35 Hz-that is a VERY small number of cabinets. And I am not talking about spec sheets that SAY -3dB 35Hz. I am talking about ACTUAL PUBLISHED MEASUREMENTS that prove it-AND WITHOUT adding eq boosting on the low freq. That only robs you of headroom when you turn it up. </p><p></p><p>And any spec that "implies" that is TOTALLY LYING!!!!! Let's say you add a 6dB boost to a 1w/M (or 2.83V/1M) sensitivity to get the stated freq response. WELL the POWER at the point of boost is NOT LONGER 1 watt-but rather 4 watts!! So that 6dB HAS to be taken AWAY from the maximum output rating-because the driver will already be "out of gas" at the low freq (where it needs it the most) long before the rest of the driver is. </p><p></p><p>It is one thing to apply eq to pull DOWN the peak in the response-but QUITE ANOTHER to boost to make up for areas that are "lacking". You HAVE to look at the RAW response in order to get an idea of what the cabinet is capable of-NO MATTER what the simple spec sheet numbers say.</p><p></p><p>It seems like fewer and fewer manufacturers are providing actual measured data these days-they just want you to "believe" that what they are telling you is the truth.</p><p></p><p>In the case of TRUE 25Hz subs-it is a VERY small class indeed <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ivan Beaver, post: 90358, member: 30"] Re: High output subwoofers. Swapping out a mid is an entirely different animal. Things like impedance-freq response-phase response-sensitivity can make a huge difference in how the cabinet performs with a different driver. Now if you are only talking about using "presets" then I do agree-it can be pretty hard to just throw in a different cabinet and have it work as well. But I still hold by my statement-HOW WAS THE SUB DESIGNED TO WORK WITH THE TOP? It is just the DSP settings that allow that to happen-the actual sub design has little to nothing to do with it. As far as having subs that are flat to 25 or 35 Hz-that is a VERY small number of cabinets. And I am not talking about spec sheets that SAY -3dB 35Hz. I am talking about ACTUAL PUBLISHED MEASUREMENTS that prove it-AND WITHOUT adding eq boosting on the low freq. That only robs you of headroom when you turn it up. And any spec that "implies" that is TOTALLY LYING!!!!! Let's say you add a 6dB boost to a 1w/M (or 2.83V/1M) sensitivity to get the stated freq response. WELL the POWER at the point of boost is NOT LONGER 1 watt-but rather 4 watts!! So that 6dB HAS to be taken AWAY from the maximum output rating-because the driver will already be "out of gas" at the low freq (where it needs it the most) long before the rest of the driver is. It is one thing to apply eq to pull DOWN the peak in the response-but QUITE ANOTHER to boost to make up for areas that are "lacking". You HAVE to look at the RAW response in order to get an idea of what the cabinet is capable of-NO MATTER what the simple spec sheet numbers say. It seems like fewer and fewer manufacturers are providing actual measured data these days-they just want you to "believe" that what they are telling you is the truth. In the case of TRUE 25Hz subs-it is a VERY small class indeed :) [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Home
Forums
Off Topic
The Basement
High output subwoofers.
Top
Bottom
Sign-up
or
log in
to join the discussion today!