KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

I have a UX8800, so that's covered. Talked to a couple of guys who used 650e back in the days when they were new, both said tri-amp or nothing.

I'll have to clean them and test the drivers first, something to do in january. Included in the package was 6 LF and 6 MF-drivers from KF850e, I believe it's the same drivers, so I should be able to make a nice, small rig without too much investment :)
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

Jim McKeveny said:
Triamp, UX, Measurement Rig..

NL8's or cursed EP6's?
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EP6, but I'm seriously thinking about refitting them with NL8. I got four SB600 in the same deal, two drivers were blown.
I have cleaned them out and will recone them first, then I'll start on four of the 650's and make a 4+4 setup out of that.
The idea is to use 8 wire speaker cable from the amprack and make a fanout for tops/subs. One cable to each side should make for a clean setup :)
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

Helge Dr. Bentsen said:
EP6, but I'm seriously thinking about refitting them with NL8. I got four SB600 in the same deal, two drivers were blown.
I have cleaned them out and will recone them first, then I'll start on four of the 650's and make a 4+4 setup out of that.
The idea is to use 8 wire speaker cable from the amprack and make a fanout for tops/subs. One cable to each side should make for a clean setup :)
Click to expand...

If you chose your pins wisely, you won't need a fanout, just NL8 cable.
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

Dave Pluke said:
Agreed. Wire pin pairs 2, 3 & 4 of the NL8 internally to the top cab and pair 1 to an added NL4 panel jack. Simple 2 conductor NL4 patch to the sub makes things clean and easy.

Dave
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Another approach is to put NL8 on the subs, and pass through the other pairs. No NL4 involved, and you can run your cables into the subs first if you'd like.
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

I love the K.I.S.S. principle. NL4s and NL8s should be fully pinned. NL2s simply should not exist in a pro setting.

Anyone who ever has placed an NL8 on 6-wire or NL4 on 2-wire is not a forward-thinking "Pro", but a knee-jerking wannabe. Those shop-based mistakes will inevitably bite you somewhere.
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

Jim McKeveny said:
I love the K.I.S.S. principle. NL4s and NL8s should be fully pinned. NL2s simply should not exist in a pro setting.

Anyone who ever has placed an NL8 on 6-wire or NL4 on 2-wire is not a forward-thinking "Pro", but a knee-jerking wannabe. Those shop-based mistakes will inevitably bite you somewhere.
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Seems a bit harsh...

Your point is taken about non-standard cables. I only mentioned one pair of conductors to an NL4 sub connector in order to keep the concept clear. I never suggested wiring an NL8 connector to a 6 conductor cable. The wiring scheme I mentioned was for inside the cabinet, between chassis-mount jacks.

Dave
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

Jim McKeveny said:
I love the K.I.S.S. principle. NL4s and NL8s should be fully pinned. NL2s simply should not exist in a pro setting.

Anyone who ever has placed an NL8 on 6-wire or NL4 on 2-wire is not a forward-thinking "Pro", but a knee-jerking wannabe. Those shop-based mistakes will inevitably bite you somewhere.
Click to expand...

Yep. I've spent far too much troubleshooting time tracking down unlabeled 2-wire cable. It's extra fun when only one element of an array is affected, and the problem isn't immediately obvious as a missing bandpass in one box.

And these sorts of issues aren't limited to cables. At least one A-list loudspeaker manufacturer didn't bother to pass through the unused pair on the NL4 inputs to their subs (I hope they've seen the error of their ways since, but haven't had the opportunity to verify). This led to much grumbling when we found the issue at a gig (where we only had half the subs working). Of course, this is the same manufacturer that had factory DSP presets in strict low-to-high order, requiring the amplifier rack to be reconfigured internally if you wanted to add subs to their wedges...
 
Re: KF650e Bi-amp or tri-amp?

My idea is to use CA-COM cabling with fanouts to NL8/4 in the speaker end and NL4 in the amp end so they fit directly into my existing patch panels, or if I need to sub an amp rack sometime. All links will be fully wired :) I like this approach, it gives me solid all-metal housing connectors on the cables that people handle for me, I do the fanouts and patcing myself.
 
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