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New Danley sub
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<blockquote data-quote="Ivan Beaver" data-source="post: 33851" data-attributes="member: 30"><p>Re: New Danley sub</p><p></p><p></p><p>As with all things bass-size matters. </p><p></p><p>Since the "wooden" front part of the TH118 is not all that large, it would be most effective in the upper bass regions. How much is hard to say without actual measurement. But you would get some gain.</p><p></p><p>Also because of the way the Tapped horn works, it is not as effective (but still does benefit a bit) with a V configuration as a normal bass horn-like the DBH218LC.</p><p></p><p>As far as the "top" goes, it needs to be rigid and not flex. If a material is flexing, then it is absorbing enery-NOT what you want. You want it to confine and direct the energy.</p><p></p><p>Think of it as a sub cabinet that does not have proper bracing. Add some bracing and the bass will get louder and "tighter".</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ivan Beaver, post: 33851, member: 30"] Re: New Danley sub As with all things bass-size matters. Since the "wooden" front part of the TH118 is not all that large, it would be most effective in the upper bass regions. How much is hard to say without actual measurement. But you would get some gain. Also because of the way the Tapped horn works, it is not as effective (but still does benefit a bit) with a V configuration as a normal bass horn-like the DBH218LC. As far as the "top" goes, it needs to be rigid and not flex. If a material is flexing, then it is absorbing enery-NOT what you want. You want it to confine and direct the energy. Think of it as a sub cabinet that does not have proper bracing. Add some bracing and the bass will get louder and "tighter". [/QUOTE]
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