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Low Earth Orbit
DIY Audio
New DIY Mid High (90deg) - AKA PM90
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<blockquote data-quote="Peter Morris" data-source="post: 133980" data-attributes="member: 652"><p>Re: New DIY Mid High</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>No I have not drawn any plans up yet – I will have to do some crude sketches as I don’t have any suitable software at the moment. The idea was to build a couple of prototypes and see how useful they are and if they sound any good … it’s looking good so far. After that maybe build another pair and document everything.</p><p></p><p>Fly-ware is technically fairly simple and straight forward, but I’m not sure how far I should go with publishing this information on a DIY forum. </p><p></p><p>My initial plan was just two strips of "rated" aircraft seating tack on the top of box with aluminum reinforcing to connect the top to the sides <a href="http://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=R1438" target="_blank">http://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=R1438</a> . Penn can provide test certificates if needed. The strength calculations for this are trivial. I’m not sure what various countries require in terms of testing. Some may even require the whole box to be tested to a proof load / factor of safety of 10:1 … don’t know.</p><p></p><p>Having said that I would love to see your fly-ware idea.</p><p></p><p>In terms of splay angle; that will depend on the horn that you use. I’m going to order some 18sound XT1464 horns. Eighteen Sound say in their documentation that "Thanks to its compact vertical mouth dimensions, the XT1464 can easily be staked vertically when lower frequency control is required". So I suspect this maybe a good choice. The other DIY forums certainly like the XT1464 / BMS4594 as a combination.</p><p></p><p>I am also going to try some B&C 12NDL76 drivers as an option (they arrived yesterday) and I have a proprietary horn flare that a friend designed that looks excellent. Unfortunately the new horn will require the box to be redesigned.</p><p></p><p>With regard to the location of porting, this can be modeled in Hornresp including its position relative to the mouth, it’s not that critical but this design seem to work best with the port near the mouth of the horn. I actually considered cutting handles in the side of the box and also have them perform as the port. Handle holes would have been about the correct size.</p><p></p><p>One of the things I wanted to achieve was to have no wasted space inside the box. Every piece of timber should perform a critical function. That way the weight and volume of the box would be minimized.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Cheers</p><p>Peter</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Peter Morris, post: 133980, member: 652"] Re: New DIY Mid High No I have not drawn any plans up yet – I will have to do some crude sketches as I don’t have any suitable software at the moment. The idea was to build a couple of prototypes and see how useful they are and if they sound any good … it’s looking good so far. After that maybe build another pair and document everything. Fly-ware is technically fairly simple and straight forward, but I’m not sure how far I should go with publishing this information on a DIY forum. My initial plan was just two strips of "rated" aircraft seating tack on the top of box with aluminum reinforcing to connect the top to the sides [URL]http://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=R1438[/URL] . Penn can provide test certificates if needed. The strength calculations for this are trivial. I’m not sure what various countries require in terms of testing. Some may even require the whole box to be tested to a proof load / factor of safety of 10:1 … don’t know. Having said that I would love to see your fly-ware idea. In terms of splay angle; that will depend on the horn that you use. I’m going to order some 18sound XT1464 horns. Eighteen Sound say in their documentation that "Thanks to its compact vertical mouth dimensions, the XT1464 can easily be staked vertically when lower frequency control is required". So I suspect this maybe a good choice. The other DIY forums certainly like the XT1464 / BMS4594 as a combination. I am also going to try some B&C 12NDL76 drivers as an option (they arrived yesterday) and I have a proprietary horn flare that a friend designed that looks excellent. Unfortunately the new horn will require the box to be redesigned. With regard to the location of porting, this can be modeled in Hornresp including its position relative to the mouth, it’s not that critical but this design seem to work best with the port near the mouth of the horn. I actually considered cutting handles in the side of the box and also have them perform as the port. Handle holes would have been about the correct size. One of the things I wanted to achieve was to have no wasted space inside the box. Every piece of timber should perform a critical function. That way the weight and volume of the box would be minimized. Cheers Peter [/QUOTE]
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