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passive crossovers (specifically from a 650e)
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<blockquote data-quote="Pat Semeraro" data-source="post: 211956" data-attributes="member: 12915"><p>Feel like I'm a tiny bit late to this one... but if the speakers are in the air and wires/amps are on the ground, I've had luck running high passed pink noise at low level directly to the amps to identify low/mid/hi lines from a loose bundle. With 650's I'd want to identify the low first and tag it. From there the unprocessed mid will have a distinct "shawww" with pink noise and the hi will have a distinct "ssshhhh" with unprocessed pink. Once the lines to the drivers are tagged, if using a 3600 I'd build 3 band passed outputs with lots of overlap and 6dB slopes. (like 40hz to 800hz low, 200hz to 2khz mid, 500z hi, all 6dB slopes.) Starting with the low I'd add the mid, match the volume, flip the polarity on the mid, delay the low for the most null, then flip back to normal, then do the same for mid and high. If the overlap nulls at normal and sums at inverted polarity then you can swap your speaker cables at the amp and verify it nulls with polarity inverted.</p><p></p><p>All of this is to simply verify the low, mid and hi lines are going to the correct drivers and polarity at the amp is correct. </p><p></p><p>At that point you can load the greybox and if the cabinet works, it should sound the way its supposed to. If the crossover has the famous EAW dried up electrolytic caps or burnt/broken resistors or was rewired by a chimpanzee, then it will never sound right until those are fixed. I've repaired/recapped way to many EAW crossovers... but never in the air! EAW was always good about sending schematics to me for crossovers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pat Semeraro, post: 211956, member: 12915"] Feel like I'm a tiny bit late to this one... but if the speakers are in the air and wires/amps are on the ground, I've had luck running high passed pink noise at low level directly to the amps to identify low/mid/hi lines from a loose bundle. With 650's I'd want to identify the low first and tag it. From there the unprocessed mid will have a distinct "shawww" with pink noise and the hi will have a distinct "ssshhhh" with unprocessed pink. Once the lines to the drivers are tagged, if using a 3600 I'd build 3 band passed outputs with lots of overlap and 6dB slopes. (like 40hz to 800hz low, 200hz to 2khz mid, 500z hi, all 6dB slopes.) Starting with the low I'd add the mid, match the volume, flip the polarity on the mid, delay the low for the most null, then flip back to normal, then do the same for mid and high. If the overlap nulls at normal and sums at inverted polarity then you can swap your speaker cables at the amp and verify it nulls with polarity inverted. All of this is to simply verify the low, mid and hi lines are going to the correct drivers and polarity at the amp is correct. At that point you can load the greybox and if the cabinet works, it should sound the way its supposed to. If the crossover has the famous EAW dried up electrolytic caps or burnt/broken resistors or was rewired by a chimpanzee, then it will never sound right until those are fixed. I've repaired/recapped way to many EAW crossovers... but never in the air! EAW was always good about sending schematics to me for crossovers. [/QUOTE]
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