How much of a difference would it make to up grade my sub amps from 1100 watts at 4ohm to 1250 watts at 4 ohms. Would it be noticeable?
Power amp upgrade
- Thread starter Randy Gartner
- Start date
That's ~1/2dB of diffreence, which won't be audible. That's roughly comparable to the difference 200' of speaker cable makes at those power levels.
Are the ratings done exactly the same way?
Is this burst power, or continuous? IF burst-what is the duration of each of the bursts?
Unless there is something else going on-the answer is no, you will not be able to hear it in a blind test.
But there could be all sorts of other reasons to get a new amp-but greater output is NOT one in this case.
Is this burst power, or continuous? IF burst-what is the duration of each of the bursts?
Unless there is something else going on-the answer is no, you will not be able to hear it in a blind test.
But there could be all sorts of other reasons to get a new amp-but greater output is NOT one in this case.
You'd need to double the power to achieve approximately 3dB of increase (all else being equal).
Dave
And then power compression will reduce the extra amplifier power, so the end result is probably even less. With increased risk on speaker overload / damage.
3 dB is about 1 click on your TV remote. Is that enough for you? Only you can answer. It depends on how much extra you are looking for.
Typically 6dB is considered a worthwhile increase.
Bigger amps are not always the answer. Sensitivity in loudspeakers make a bigger difference.
But trying to compare different models in sensitivity is often hard.
The numbers are not as simple as they may appear. You could take 1 model speaker and look at it from several different angles and get different answers.
Simple numbers often result in WRONG answers. You have be sure to compare apples to apples, but some are green and others red-----------
Like others have said, the upgrade isn't going to be noticeable IF the amps are rated using the same set of guidelines. The thing is, manufacturers use different measurement techniques and just the power rating spec alone doesn't tell the story of the amp. Some amps work better on subs than others even with lesser power ratings.
If you want a more accurate answer, list the actual components we are dealing with and you will get more accurate answers.
If you want a more accurate answer, list the actual components we are dealing with and you will get more accurate answers.
What 'might' be noticeable, is an improvement in quality, and perhaps dynamics, if you are upgrading from el cheapo entry level gear to a significantly better quality amp.
I recently switched to new lightweight amps, of the same or perhaps even marginally less power, and was pleasantly surprised to gain a notch in sound quality.
To be fair, the old amps were nothing special, and the improvement is subtle. Typically the biggest improvements can be had by upgrading the most non-linear components ie; speakers & mics.
I recently switched to new lightweight amps, of the same or perhaps even marginally less power, and was pleasantly surprised to gain a notch in sound quality.
To be fair, the old amps were nothing special, and the improvement is subtle. Typically the biggest improvements can be had by upgrading the most non-linear components ie; speakers & mics.
I do not have el cheapo amps. I have 2 QSC 3402's on the subs. A QSC 3002 on the lows, a 2402 on the mids and a Lab Gruppen FP 2400 on the horns. My plan was to stick with QSC or Lab Gruppen.
Going from PLX to Lab (or Powersoft) should make a difference on subwoofers, even if there isn't a drastic difference on paper.
I went from 2x PLX3002 to a single Crest ProLite 7.5 driving 4 Growlers. I had run the PLXs bridged with one 3002 driving each pair of Growlers, but found it was better to drive them as 4 separate 8 ohm loads with dedicated amp channels. I switched back & forth a couple times to make sure and it was noticeable. Upgrading to the ProLite 7.5 was much more noticeable difference in output on top of the best config with the PLX's. There was also a noticeable change in power consumption with the class D design of the ProLite being much more efficient and apparently being more tolerant of low voltage and it has never reset in a situation where the PLX would reset.
Hi Randy - Flaming Dick and the Hot Rods not loud enough for you? 
Like others have said, level increase would not be that apparent, But it is always good to have more headroom.
Like others have said, level increase would not be that apparent, But it is always good to have more headroom.
Hate to mention the B word here but a NU12000DSP will give you 3400 into 4 X2 all day and night. Talk about head room. I've been bashing my 6000's for 2 years and not a whimper or clip. For under $1000 bucks it is hard to justify the money for those other choices unless your are building a touring rig . If you want to hear my amps on your rig I am sure we can meet at the Robesonia DD some weekend. I'll buy.
Without knowing what your subs are, it's hard to tell, but I would also carefully consider whether you need more power, or more subs?
Doubling your sub stack will give you +6db's (assuming enough amplifier capability to run them all at the current power level). Doubling wattage to your existing subs would only give you 3db's, less power compression (which starts to add up quickly, and could swallow up 2 of those db's!) and increase the odds of burning out drivers.
Even running a little bit under powered, you'll likely get a better result with more subs - higher sensitivity, less power compression, less distortion, more displacement etc.
You can also gain a few free db's via placement ie; grouped subs for coupling, and boundary loading. Well worth exploring, as it won't cost anything more than a little bit of your time to try it out.
Doubling your sub stack will give you +6db's (assuming enough amplifier capability to run them all at the current power level). Doubling wattage to your existing subs would only give you 3db's, less power compression (which starts to add up quickly, and could swallow up 2 of those db's!) and increase the odds of burning out drivers.
Even running a little bit under powered, you'll likely get a better result with more subs - higher sensitivity, less power compression, less distortion, more displacement etc.
You can also gain a few free db's via placement ie; grouped subs for coupling, and boundary loading. Well worth exploring, as it won't cost anything more than a little bit of your time to try it out.
Boyd, you make a fine point. You can only push things so hard, and with the exception of guitar speakers most systems do not sound so good when cranked to the max. My moto has been many speakers taking it easy trumps fewer speakers screaming.
My subs are double 18's loaded with JBL 151's. 2 subs per side. I am not unhappy with the sound.Just looking for a little more headroom.