Powersoft Packaging: an example

Frank Koenig

Sophomore
Mar 7, 2011
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Palo Alto, CA USA
www.dunmovin.com
I recently bought two Powersoft K10 AESOP amps the idea being that one will power left and right house tops and the other house subs. Fine as these amps are they present some packaging challenges: they are relatively deep; the CPC power connector sticks out about 3 inches, even with a right-angle backshell; the Ethernet/AESOP RJ-45 jacks are PC mount types, not Ethercons; and if you want routinely to use the XLR and Speakon connectors on the back you need thumb clearance to unlatch them.

Not wanting to get involved in getting a custom rack case fabricated I scoured the Internet for off-the-shelf solutions. I settled on EWI Roadcase's deepest 4 RU rack case. This is strong enough for my relatively mild needs. The trouble is that the spacing between the front and rear rack rails causes the rear mounting holes on the amps to fall exactly on the rear rack rails. The solution was to move the front rails forward about 1/2 inch by drilling new holes in the rails for the bolts that secure the rails to the case. There is just enough material to do this. It places the amp's rear holes just inside the rear rail so that a piece of 1 x 1 x .125 Al angle makes a very solid rear bracket. Moving the amps forward also provides more room for the power connector. The Powersofts only need 1 inch in front of the front rails, so no problem there.

The thumb clearance required for the input and output connectors absolutely prevents an amp from occupying the top space in the rack. (You'd need a special tool to unlatch the Speakons.) Since I need two contiguous spaces to accommodate the diameter of an L14-30 power inlet the only possibility is to put the amps together at the bottom of the rack and the power adapter panel at the top.

PSK10Rack.jpg

The cutout in the power panel provides ample thumb clearance. The panel also holds an Ethercon feed-through so that a rugged, strain-relieved network cable can be used. An aluminum enclosure contains the power wiring and and a 15 A branch rated circuit breaker and convenience outlet on its front side. The Ethercon is outside the power enclosure. A diagonal brace from the right edge of the panel to the enclosure stiffens the panel, which is fabricated from .125 6061-T6, against torment by heavy power cords.

Here are some part number:
CPC connector body TE Connectivity 206037-2
CPC rt-angle backshell TE Connectivity 1546349-2
CPC contacts TE Connectivity 2-66741-1
Ethercon feed-through Neutrik NE8FDP
5x10x3 enclosure Bud AC-404
rt-angle cord-grips McMaster 7466K533
15 A CB McMaster 3851K11

--Frank
 
Re: Powersoft Packaging: an example

Can you please post more picks of front and back or email them to me. How is your distro wired? You decided to just plug cables directly to amp. To me that feels a little dangerous. I to own k series amps and buying new cases in not easy on the pocket. I was thinking about building what you have there for portability on small shows.
Why did you buy all these parts? Can't you just buy the rt-angle and use the excisting contacts and body?
CPC connector body TE Connectivity 206037-2

CPC rt-angle backshell TE Connectivity 1546349-2
CPC contacts TE Connectivity 2-66741-1
 
Re: Powersoft Packaging: an example

Ramiro,

I'll put up some more pics in due course. I just got back into town after a week's absence and have some catching up to do.

The power box is not really a distro, more of just an adapter. The amps are rated for 32 A (avg) input at 120 V, so powering one off of each leg of a 240 V, 30 A, 3 pole, 4 wire branch circuit is a good fit. The overcurrent protection is provided by the upstream distro or panelboard. (The code police may want to comment on this :) )

I made up new pigtails because, frankly, the ones that came with the amps were pretty poorly assembled. They also used some nasty, plastic portable cord, not SOOW or SJOOW. I'll keep them with 5-15Ps wired to their ends for testing or emergencies. As it turns out, I was set up to work with CPC connectors as some years ago I converted all my 12 VDC camping stuff to those (maybe not a great idea, but they're there now).

--Frank
 
Frank, what did you use to thread into for the aluminum angle rear amp supports? I'm working up a custom solution for several racks with Crown's in them.

For materials I went the 1/8" aluminum angle and some 1/4" aluminum plate and picked up some 1/4-20 rivet nuts to use for stainless cap screws through the amp support brackets. Never used them before, thought they pressed in from the back side, upon further research found out they go in from the front and require a puller - so I ordered a puller that should work ok. Going to use 1/4-20 stainless socket head cap screws with hex interface.

At one point I was considering threading the aluminum and didn't want that much of a threading project, so ordered the rivet nuts.


The aluminum angle is 1" on the flats, figure running them across the mill to narrow for proper fit on the rails. I'll put some pictures up when I get one finished.

The electrical looks great, nice and clean. Did you encase the rear of the panel? That's another thing I'm giving consideration to doing. Have a box an dpan brake I bought for another project a couple of years ago, so sheet metal boxing won't be too difficult.

Never mind, I looked at your pictures again and see you did indeed box them in. Looks like aluminum sheet stock? Or a pre-fab the correct size for your application?

Very nice work sir. Ever run into issues with custom power panels in racks for UL seals and such? Talking about inspectors. I ask because I'm planning on all custom power panels as well.
 
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