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Junior Varsity
QSC TouchMix 16 sound problem fixed (other touchmix versions may also get this)
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<blockquote data-quote="Roy Andrews" data-source="post: 216207" data-attributes="member: 15263"><p>QSC are pretty cagey on their service manuals. Finding them online is difficult, I could not find anything for the TM series.</p><p></p><p>What you need to remove is basically everything, except the screws that hold the metal base "weight" onto the plastic bottom of the mixer. You can leave the metal weight attached to the plastic bottom. You also need to remove the nuts around the 1/4" jacks on the top plate, as well as those torx screws around the XLR jacks, plus all the gain knobs. Before you can remove the top deck, you need to CAREFULLY remove the 2 flexes and 1 solid copper flat wire that connect the display to the main board. Exercise EXTREME caution here, I just worked on a mixer where the guy destroyed the display panel flexes. A replacement display costs $150 plus requires special authorization if you are not a QSC authorized person (I'm not). The big flex needs to be released by moving the darker plastic "ears" at each edge of the flex connector. The narrow flex & the copper flat wire pull out - carefully!! Take a picture, do not reverse them!! Then remove the plug that connects the rotator knob PCB to the main board. You should now have the main PCB completely separate from everything else.</p><p></p><p>At this stage, you'll have to decide if you want to remove the plastic support bracket from around the XLR jacks to give yourself more room to work, or if you can deal with the cramped space with the bracket in place. Up to you.</p><p></p><p>Make absolutely sure you have a quality technician's soldering station with temp control (750-800F) and a small spade tip, as well as a powerful desoldering pump. This is a multi layer board, and if you do a half assed job of desoldering, then try to pull the caps out, you will destroy the plate through holes, and you will need to install jumper wires from the legs of the capacitors to additional points on the circuit board that the plate through holes connect to on the internal layers of the PCB. At this stage, you can basically throw the board away, if you are not a super-tech. How do I know this? Because I just salvaged exactly such a board... previously worked on by a complete idiot.</p><p></p><p>Solder in your new caps, making sure that the + pin goes to the XLR pin 2 side as determined with a multi meter.</p><p></p><p>Good luck!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Roy Andrews, post: 216207, member: 15263"] QSC are pretty cagey on their service manuals. Finding them online is difficult, I could not find anything for the TM series. What you need to remove is basically everything, except the screws that hold the metal base "weight" onto the plastic bottom of the mixer. You can leave the metal weight attached to the plastic bottom. You also need to remove the nuts around the 1/4" jacks on the top plate, as well as those torx screws around the XLR jacks, plus all the gain knobs. Before you can remove the top deck, you need to CAREFULLY remove the 2 flexes and 1 solid copper flat wire that connect the display to the main board. Exercise EXTREME caution here, I just worked on a mixer where the guy destroyed the display panel flexes. A replacement display costs $150 plus requires special authorization if you are not a QSC authorized person (I'm not). The big flex needs to be released by moving the darker plastic "ears" at each edge of the flex connector. The narrow flex & the copper flat wire pull out - carefully!! Take a picture, do not reverse them!! Then remove the plug that connects the rotator knob PCB to the main board. You should now have the main PCB completely separate from everything else. At this stage, you'll have to decide if you want to remove the plastic support bracket from around the XLR jacks to give yourself more room to work, or if you can deal with the cramped space with the bracket in place. Up to you. Make absolutely sure you have a quality technician's soldering station with temp control (750-800F) and a small spade tip, as well as a powerful desoldering pump. This is a multi layer board, and if you do a half assed job of desoldering, then try to pull the caps out, you will destroy the plate through holes, and you will need to install jumper wires from the legs of the capacitors to additional points on the circuit board that the plate through holes connect to on the internal layers of the PCB. At this stage, you can basically throw the board away, if you are not a super-tech. How do I know this? Because I just salvaged exactly such a board... previously worked on by a complete idiot. Solder in your new caps, making sure that the + pin goes to the XLR pin 2 side as determined with a multi meter. Good luck!! [/QUOTE]
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QSC TouchMix 16 sound problem fixed (other touchmix versions may also get this)
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