I have spent the past forever borrowing my neighbor's soldering iron whenever I need one and I have decided that it is probably time for me to get one of my own. Not looking to spend more than I have to as I am mostly just doing the very occasional cable repair or even more occasional custom adapter but I also want something that isn't going to break a week from now. What do people have that they are happy with? Any units and/or brands I should stay away from? It looks like Weller makes some decent ones from what I can tell over the internet. Thoughts on their lower end stuff?
Soldering Iron
- Thread starter Matthew Haber
- Start date
Re: Soldering Iron
Hey Matthew,
I'd at least look at the Hakko irons. A few more bucks, but very good tools. I prefer them over the Weller.
Hey Matthew,
I'd at least look at the Hakko irons. A few more bucks, but very good tools. I prefer them over the Weller.
Jonathan Martin
Little Lebowski Achiever
Re: Soldering Iron
How low is ''low budget''?
For occasional use on a low budget, I'd probably just pick up an unregulated pencil iron. Then, once you've had enough frustration with unregulated or poorly regulated irons that can't keep the tip hot, buy a real solder station, either used or new. The cheap solder stations ($50-$100 Wellers - I haven't used the Hakkos) really aren't enough better to be worth the price jump and inability to toss into a gig bag.
I've had decent luck with the 40W pencils (Radio Shack and Weller) that have chisel tips.
How low is ''low budget''?
For occasional use on a low budget, I'd probably just pick up an unregulated pencil iron. Then, once you've had enough frustration with unregulated or poorly regulated irons that can't keep the tip hot, buy a real solder station, either used or new. The cheap solder stations ($50-$100 Wellers - I haven't used the Hakkos) really aren't enough better to be worth the price jump and inability to toss into a gig bag.
I've had decent luck with the 40W pencils (Radio Shack and Weller) that have chisel tips.
Re: Soldering Iron
The Hakko 936 station can generally be had for $100, sometimes a bit less. Well worth the investment. Hakko also makes decent pencil soldering irons too.
FWIW, I have a Plano type plastic tool box with a single lift out tray, and in the bottom fit in the Hakko station, a Panavise mounted on a square piece of 18mm Baltic Birch plywood, a small 6''x8'' flip top parts bin, a Fluke 73, solder, misc. Top tray has handtools and misc. The lid has two parts bins that lock into place, holding connectors, fasteners, etc.
Pretty compact really.
Best regards,
John
The Hakko 936 station can generally be had for $100, sometimes a bit less. Well worth the investment. Hakko also makes decent pencil soldering irons too.
FWIW, I have a Plano type plastic tool box with a single lift out tray, and in the bottom fit in the Hakko station, a Panavise mounted on a square piece of 18mm Baltic Birch plywood, a small 6''x8'' flip top parts bin, a Fluke 73, solder, misc. Top tray has handtools and misc. The lid has two parts bins that lock into place, holding connectors, fasteners, etc.
Pretty compact really.
Best regards,
John
Re: Soldering Iron
What are you going to be soldering? If you are soldering 22-ga XLRs, fine spacing ICs, or 12-ga wire the answers may be a bit different.
I'll take others' word that the Hakkos are good - I haven't used them myself.
I did a lot of soldering over the years with a butane iron. The advantages are:
- no cord - good for ladders and other hard to reach places
- variable temp
- High power for small size iron
- built-in heat gun for shrink tubing
There are certainly disadvantages:
- butane isn't cheap if you do a lot of soldering
- though variable temp, there's no regulation - you can still deplete the heat stored in the tip
- Not ESD safe
- Certain parts of the tip can be much hotter than soldering temp
I still use them occasionally, but a couple years ago found a Weller WD-1001 regulated station on Craigslist for $100. I now have a selection of tips and actually both the regular and high-wattage iron and can handle pretty much anything.
What are you going to be soldering? If you are soldering 22-ga XLRs, fine spacing ICs, or 12-ga wire the answers may be a bit different.
I'll take others' word that the Hakkos are good - I haven't used them myself.
I did a lot of soldering over the years with a butane iron. The advantages are:
- no cord - good for ladders and other hard to reach places
- variable temp
- High power for small size iron
- built-in heat gun for shrink tubing
There are certainly disadvantages:
- butane isn't cheap if you do a lot of soldering
- though variable temp, there's no regulation - you can still deplete the heat stored in the tip
- Not ESD safe
- Certain parts of the tip can be much hotter than soldering temp
I still use them occasionally, but a couple years ago found a Weller WD-1001 regulated station on Craigslist for $100. I now have a selection of tips and actually both the regular and high-wattage iron and can handle pretty much anything.
Re: Soldering Iron
+1 for the Metcal
(though I spend half my life with a soldering iron in my hand
it may be overkill for occasional users. I bought all my Metcal gear secondhand on Ebay, where the price is very reasonable).
M
+1 for the Metcal
(though I spend half my life with a soldering iron in my hand
it may be overkill for occasional users. I bought all my Metcal gear secondhand on Ebay, where the price is very reasonable).
M
Re: Soldering Iron
+1 for the Hakko 936, got one on my bench right now and it handles every general audio repair just fine. I also have a Loner 951SX on my desk at work and it's on par with the Hakko.
+1 for the Hakko 936, got one on my bench right now and it handles every general audio repair just fine. I also have a Loner 951SX on my desk at work and it's on par with the Hakko.
Re: Soldering Iron
To clarify, I will be using this almost exclusively on XLR cable. I am not doing anything with circuit boards and except for the very occasional panel mount PowerCon or NL4, I am not doing anything higher gauge than XLR.
To clarify budget, I am not really looking to spend more than $100 unless there is a really really good reason.
Thoughts on this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-Iron/dp/B000ARU9HW
To clarify, I will be using this almost exclusively on XLR cable. I am not doing anything with circuit boards and except for the very occasional panel mount PowerCon or NL4, I am not doing anything higher gauge than XLR.
To clarify budget, I am not really looking to spend more than $100 unless there is a really really good reason.
Thoughts on this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-Iron/dp/B000ARU9HW
Re: Soldering Iron
the hakko 936 is a fantastic iron. I have 2 as well have a hakko 470 desolder station. I use the metcals at work and they are nicer but the hakko comes close for 1/8th the money. Used from ebay is also an option for the hakko's.
the hakko 936 is a fantastic iron. I have 2 as well have a hakko 470 desolder station. I use the metcals at work and they are nicer but the hakko comes close for 1/8th the money. Used from ebay is also an option for the hakko's.
Re: Soldering Iron
I've been using the Hakko Dash 454 for years. With just a few tips I can do anything from (large) SMT work to 10 gauge in a PowerCon. Cheap, and more reliable than anything else I've owned. http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49,118&PID=2493&Page=1
I've been using the Hakko Dash 454 for years. With just a few tips I can do anything from (large) SMT work to 10 gauge in a PowerCon. Cheap, and more reliable than anything else I've owned. http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49,118&PID=2493&Page=1
Re: Soldering Iron
I think I paid like $15 for the one I got at radio shack 4 years ago, and it's been flawless for me. I've built hundreds of XLR's, W1's, done various electronics repairs, ect. When it dies, I'll probably just buy another one.
Evan
I think I paid like $15 for the one I got at radio shack 4 years ago, and it's been flawless for me. I've built hundreds of XLR's, W1's, done various electronics repairs, ect. When it dies, I'll probably just buy another one.
Evan
Re: Soldering Iron
to evan and others, once you try using a pencil type with external power supply, you feel very handcuffed trying to use a bulky all in one unit.
to evan and others, once you try using a pencil type with external power supply, you feel very handcuffed trying to use a bulky all in one unit.
Re: Soldering Iron
The cheap 40W pencils (Radioshack and Weller at least) aren't that bulky. Yeah, they'll burn your fingers if you leave them on for too long, and they're unregulated, but size isn't the issue.
The cheap 40W pencils (Radioshack and Weller at least) aren't that bulky. Yeah, they'll burn your fingers if you leave them on for too long, and they're unregulated, but size isn't the issue.
Re: Soldering Iron
OK, now you're bragging.
When OKI bought Metcal they rebadged the lower end of the line as OKI but the same Metcal parts and ''Smartheat'' technology. I had to pull teeth to get the corporate overlords to buy an OKI MFR 1100. http://www.okinternational.com/product_soldering_mfr1100 It's a Metcal on the inside but not quite the price tag. Still over US$500 new. I've got a request in to replace an aging Weller rework/desoldering kit with the Metcal MX series. They shit when they saw the price, about US$700 bucks. They're trying to extend the life of about 40 Crest 8001s before we replace them, two at a time with Lab Gruppen C48:4s Toast one 8001 board (that you can't get anyway) and suddenly a US$700 tool looks like a good value. When you use a Metcal, you will know.
To the OP, the 100 buck Hakko works great. That's what I would get if I were buying for myself.
Dave
OK, now you're bragging.
To the OP, the 100 buck Hakko works great. That's what I would get if I were buying for myself.
Dave
Re: Soldering Iron
Well in all fairness, top o' the line is required as there a lot of SMT based stuff at the day job. And the Metcal is a pleasure for those personal repairs I have to make from time to time
Repairing old 8001s eh? I'm still using them too, the old Rat Sound ones that have already taking quite a beating. Still going strong. The only real maintenance I've had to do is clean the Molex connectors up and tighten up some of the 'outy' style knobs. I'm also in the process of modifying the fans for manual 2-speed operation as the original 8001s are full speed operation unlike the inny knob ones which are 2-speed auto.
Greg
Well in all fairness, top o' the line is required as there a lot of SMT based stuff at the day job. And the Metcal is a pleasure for those personal repairs I have to make from time to time
Repairing old 8001s eh? I'm still using them too, the old Rat Sound ones that have already taking quite a beating. Still going strong. The only real maintenance I've had to do is clean the Molex connectors up and tighten up some of the 'outy' style knobs. I'm also in the process of modifying the fans for manual 2-speed operation as the original 8001s are full speed operation unlike the inny knob ones which are 2-speed auto.
Greg
Re: Soldering Iron
FWIW, the MFR-1100 can now be had for around $350 with a couple of tips. And given that that's the replacement for the SP-200, I'd say that the price has gone up vs. the Metcal.
FWIW, the MFR-1100 can now be had for around $350 with a couple of tips. And given that that's the replacement for the SP-200, I'd say that the price has gone up vs. the Metcal.
Re: Soldering Iron
We got the 1161 package with tweezers and every tip available. At the time just over $500 from Newark with shipping. The biggest challenge for a couple of users was having to pick the right tip for the job. They'd just been turning the Weller up past 700 degrees and burning the shit out of the joint.
Dave
We got the 1161 package with tweezers and every tip available. At the time just over $500 from Newark with shipping. The biggest challenge for a couple of users was having to pick the right tip for the job. They'd just been turning the Weller up past 700 degrees and burning the shit out of the joint.
Dave