Something doesn't look right here...
- Thread starter Alan Sledzieski
- Start date
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
I think it is an EAW. My second guess would be EV. No idea what model.
I think it is an EAW. My second guess would be EV. No idea what model.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
Shmoked em. That toggle switch is looking pretty sloppy. What happened ?
Shmoked em. That toggle switch is looking pretty sloppy. What happened ?
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
Tried to fit 10 gallons in a 9 gallon hat?
Tried to fit 10 gallons in a 9 gallon hat?
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
What happened,, I don't know for sure not my box's, fixing them up for someone, To much power, or just what I usually see in a eaw crossover, lots of burned up parts if your not carefull with the power. The toggle and the toggle from the other box look alike, theres a few cold solders on them, some slop yes.
What happened,, I don't know for sure not my box's, fixing them up for someone, To much power, or just what I usually see in a eaw crossover, lots of burned up parts if your not carefull with the power. The toggle and the toggle from the other box look alike, theres a few cold solders on them, some slop yes.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
Sure is, I just reworked a pair of those crossovers, same problem, same components. Factory replacements were three months out, so I just replaced with the same values, or darned close, and in the case of the caps, used Solen 400v versions.
Customer said they set them up for a DJ's monitors. I suspect there was no sub in that set up, and they just hammered them.
Best regards,
John
PS. They blew one of the 12" drivers as well.
Sure is, I just reworked a pair of those crossovers, same problem, same components. Factory replacements were three months out, so I just replaced with the same values, or darned close, and in the case of the caps, used Solen 400v versions.
Customer said they set them up for a DJ's monitors. I suspect there was no sub in that set up, and they just hammered them.
Best regards,
John
PS. They blew one of the 12" drivers as well.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
I'd recommend mounting(GOOP brand adhesive or silicone) the two charred resistors up on a piece of aluminum extrusion, and use standoffs to mount them the board. Better heat dissipation.
John
I'd recommend mounting(GOOP brand adhesive or silicone) the two charred resistors up on a piece of aluminum extrusion, and use standoffs to mount them the board. Better heat dissipation.
John
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
I put these in the boxs.
Beyma Crossovers - Beyma FD-212 crossover - Beyma FD-212 2-way passive 1.2kHz crossover. The Beyma FD-212 crossover is rated at over 500 watts RMS. Beyma crossovers here.
I put these in the boxs.
Beyma Crossovers - Beyma FD-212 crossover - Beyma FD-212 2-way passive 1.2kHz crossover. The Beyma FD-212 crossover is rated at over 500 watts RMS. Beyma crossovers here.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
Alan, you need to match the original crossover component for component.
Alan, you need to match the original crossover component for component.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
The best a general purpose crossover can do is to "assume" that the amplitude and impedance of the drivers is "perfect". Of which they are not-and in many cases not even close.
So the response will often be quite different than what you hope it would be.
I would use Johns recommendation and just replace the values-EXCEPT I would change the power capacity of the resistor(s). Whatever the ohmage value is-I would double it-and use twice as many as origional.
Keep the wattage the same (probably 25 watts). I don't know hte values-but lets assume there were 2 10 ohm resistors-each 25 watts. That gives a total impedance of 5 ohms and 50 watts capacity. So if you use 4x20 ohms (25 watts) you will still have the same 5 ohms-but now have a 100 watt capacity.
Now for those wanting to get "picky", I agree that the actual capacity of the 4 resistors-in the same physical location-will not be as high as 100 watts-due to the fact that they are close to each other and will be "sharing" the heat. But it WILL be quite a bit higher than previously.
This will keep them running cooler. And increase the voltage rating on the cap. 400V should be fine for a monitor.
I second the use of silicon (as John said)-I don't know about Goop. Silicone is very stable under very high temps-just stick a solidering iron into a hardened "blob" and see what happens. Essentially nothing.
Swapping a crossover designed for a particular product with a genaric one is not generally a good idea.
The best a general purpose crossover can do is to "assume" that the amplitude and impedance of the drivers is "perfect". Of which they are not-and in many cases not even close.
So the response will often be quite different than what you hope it would be.
I would use Johns recommendation and just replace the values-EXCEPT I would change the power capacity of the resistor(s). Whatever the ohmage value is-I would double it-and use twice as many as origional.
Keep the wattage the same (probably 25 watts). I don't know hte values-but lets assume there were 2 10 ohm resistors-each 25 watts. That gives a total impedance of 5 ohms and 50 watts capacity. So if you use 4x20 ohms (25 watts) you will still have the same 5 ohms-but now have a 100 watt capacity.
Now for those wanting to get "picky", I agree that the actual capacity of the 4 resistors-in the same physical location-will not be as high as 100 watts-due to the fact that they are close to each other and will be "sharing" the heat. But it WILL be quite a bit higher than previously.
This will keep them running cooler. And increase the voltage rating on the cap. 400V should be fine for a monitor.
I second the use of silicon (as John said)-I don't know about Goop. Silicone is very stable under very high temps-just stick a solidering iron into a hardened "blob" and see what happens. Essentially nothing.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
I agree with everything Ivan's added here Alan-I even went back and checked my notes, because I'd thought I had doubled up on the resistors, partly due to some of the the originals being an odd(custom) value of 19 ohms, IIRC.
The rebuild got pretty crowded, as the doubling of resistors and the fact the Solen caps were about 4x larger than the originals, but I got it all in there. That is another reason for recommending the use of aluminum extrusions and standoffs, you can build a second layer above the board and fit these larger bits, along with gaining heat dissipation capacity for the resistors.
The Goop brand of adhesive works better than the original hot melt adhesive used in the EAW(and many other brands). Silicon is probably more heat tolerant, but it's also not as good at heat transfer. I(and others) use the Goop as the basic adhesive for crossovers.
Alan, you may have gotten the speakers running again, but you've certainly altered the performance a lot, and not for the better, or the same.
Best regards,
John
I agree with everything Ivan's added here Alan-I even went back and checked my notes, because I'd thought I had doubled up on the resistors, partly due to some of the the originals being an odd(custom) value of 19 ohms, IIRC.
The rebuild got pretty crowded, as the doubling of resistors and the fact the Solen caps were about 4x larger than the originals, but I got it all in there. That is another reason for recommending the use of aluminum extrusions and standoffs, you can build a second layer above the board and fit these larger bits, along with gaining heat dissipation capacity for the resistors.
The Goop brand of adhesive works better than the original hot melt adhesive used in the EAW(and many other brands). Silicon is probably more heat tolerant, but it's also not as good at heat transfer. I(and others) use the Goop as the basic adhesive for crossovers.
Alan, you may have gotten the speakers running again, but you've certainly altered the performance a lot, and not for the better, or the same.
Best regards,
John
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
I understand that and realize it for sure.
At the same time if the crossover is designed around a particular component, be it a 15, 6'' or a horn at the time of manufacture. Eaw does not build there own speakers, they use many brands. So when we blew a eminence 15 in a eaw la 325 the original 15 was replaced by a different model. We used it, but there was no change to the cross over. When you toast the 6'' Fostek I believe? in a 325, the replacement is now a b+c lc-0652. Again, eaw does not have a change in the crossover design, I was told, it will work.
So, what gives here?
Thanks.
I understand that and realize it for sure.
At the same time if the crossover is designed around a particular component, be it a 15, 6'' or a horn at the time of manufacture. Eaw does not build there own speakers, they use many brands. So when we blew a eminence 15 in a eaw la 325 the original 15 was replaced by a different model. We used it, but there was no change to the cross over. When you toast the 6'' Fostek I believe? in a 325, the replacement is now a b+c lc-0652. Again, eaw does not have a change in the crossover design, I was told, it will work.
So, what gives here?
Thanks.
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
John,
Was the eaw 12'' replacement a Identical 12'' or something different?
John,
Was the eaw 12'' replacement a Identical 12'' or something different?
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
They use the transducer with the closest Thiele/Small parameter match they can come up with. For recent/current models that can mean a custom batch, for legacy models it's "closest production unit."
They use the transducer with the closest Thiele/Small parameter match they can come up with. For recent/current models that can mean a custom batch, for legacy models it's "closest production unit."
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
So less then as perfect as it was in the begining?
So less then as perfect as it was in the begining?
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
You'd have to ask EAW about that.
We have some older EAW wedges and finally blew a 12". Probably Eminence OEM, it's no longer available. EAW suggested a "most-like" substitution and the "gray matter" measurements say it's close enough for what we use those monitors for. Others may have a different opinion or standards. For our uses, the only difference is it weighs more...
You'd have to ask EAW about that.
We have some older EAW wedges and finally blew a 12". Probably Eminence OEM, it's no longer available. EAW suggested a "most-like" substitution and the "gray matter" measurements say it's close enough for what we use those monitors for. Others may have a different opinion or standards. For our uses, the only difference is it weighs more...
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
Best regards,
John
Recone kit from EAW for the factory original ATC driver, done in our shop by one of the best reconers in the biz.
Best regards,
John
Re: Something doesn't look right here...
I would, but the chances of getting someone on the phone, or someone to return a phone call,,, lets say you have a better chance on winning the lottery. LOL
I would, but the chances of getting someone on the phone, or someone to return a phone call,,, lets say you have a better chance on winning the lottery. LOL