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<blockquote data-quote="Ivan Beaver" data-source="post: 81735" data-attributes="member: 30">Re: strange subwoofer thingieI have seen drivers do this-in a couple of different ways.One brand has the lead in/tinsel wires that are connected to the voice coil wires via crimps.In the early runs (can&#039;t say about it now-because I am out of the recone business) this crimp would not always be real solid.&nbsp; So it would &quot;kina let lose&quot; a little bit.&nbsp; But when enough voltage was applied it would (jump) back into action-for a little bit anyway.&nbsp; The solution (short fo a full recone) was to scrape away the glue over the connection-spply a little bit of solder and reglue.&nbsp; I would always solder that connection on the recones before assembly-so it did not happen to my jobs.I have also seen the tinsel wire &quot;wear out&quot; where it attaches to the back side of the cone.&nbsp; This &quot;wire&quot; is not all wire or conductor-so the other parts would hold it in place and the electrical connections were very close-so a high enough voltage would make it work-for a little bit.Those 2 problems are easy to fix and don&#039;t require a full recone.Other ones include voice coil wires that are bent sharply and burn through-but not completely.I have seen some speaker that have little fuses behind the input terminals (of the driver) that the fuse element has become &quot;lose&quot; inside the glass-and it floats around making contact sometimes and not other times.But the problem could be outside the driver-input jacks on the cabinet-wire connected to the input jack-speaker cables and so forth.It could be anywhere-the only way to tell is to jump in and start measuring to see where the open is.&nbsp; An ohm meter is not gong to supply enough voltage for the connection to &quot;jump&quot;.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Ivan Beaver, post: 81735, member: 30"] Re: strange subwoofer thingie I have seen drivers do this-in a couple of different ways. One brand has the lead in/tinsel wires that are connected to the voice coil wires via crimps. In the early runs (can't say about it now-because I am out of the recone business) this crimp would not always be real solid. So it would "kina let lose" a little bit. But when enough voltage was applied it would (jump) back into action-for a little bit anyway. The solution (short fo a full recone) was to scrape away the glue over the connection-spply a little bit of solder and reglue. I would always solder that connection on the recones before assembly-so it did not happen to my jobs. I have also seen the tinsel wire "wear out" where it attaches to the back side of the cone. This "wire" is not all wire or conductor-so the other parts would hold it in place and the electrical connections were very close-so a high enough voltage would make it work-for a little bit. Those 2 problems are easy to fix and don't require a full recone. Other ones include voice coil wires that are bent sharply and burn through-but not completely. I have seen some speaker that have little fuses behind the input terminals (of the driver) that the fuse element has become "lose" inside the glass-and it floats around making contact sometimes and not other times. But the problem could be outside the driver-input jacks on the cabinet-wire connected to the input jack-speaker cables and so forth. It could be anywhere-the only way to tell is to jump in and start measuring to see where the open is. An ohm meter is not gong to supply enough voltage for the connection to "jump". [/QUOTE]

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