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Junior Varsity
tannoy speaker repair
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<blockquote data-quote="Paul Johnson" data-source="post: 217655" data-attributes="member: 2643"><p>The basic technique is simple - disconnect the driver wires, and put even a cheap multimeter across them. You cannot get an accurate impedance measurement this way, but two thing will happen. Test the meter by touching the test probes together on a low Ohms setting and it should read very close to zero - A direct short. Try the probes on the speaker. A blown driver coil won't give you a reading at all - there is a break in the coil somewhere. Or, you will get a complete short - where the coil popped and connected itself to another turn in the coil. One thing to check is to splay your fingers out and gently touch all five onto the cone. Then add pressure and see if the cone goes in and out smoothly and silently. If you can feel roughness, or an 'edge' - then the former the coil is wound on may have overheated and warped so it rubs in the slot. Sometimes the coil may have 'over-excursioned' - maybe a big click or pop with the volume knob well advanced and the former popped completely out of the slot and didn't go back in, lodged on the edge.</p><p></p><p>Open or short circuit means a new driver or rebuild, but a stuck cone might be resettable and you'd be back to normal. Specialists can repair speakers, and sometimes far cheaper than a new driver.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Paul Johnson, post: 217655, member: 2643"] The basic technique is simple - disconnect the driver wires, and put even a cheap multimeter across them. You cannot get an accurate impedance measurement this way, but two thing will happen. Test the meter by touching the test probes together on a low Ohms setting and it should read very close to zero - A direct short. Try the probes on the speaker. A blown driver coil won't give you a reading at all - there is a break in the coil somewhere. Or, you will get a complete short - where the coil popped and connected itself to another turn in the coil. One thing to check is to splay your fingers out and gently touch all five onto the cone. Then add pressure and see if the cone goes in and out smoothly and silently. If you can feel roughness, or an 'edge' - then the former the coil is wound on may have overheated and warped so it rubs in the slot. Sometimes the coil may have 'over-excursioned' - maybe a big click or pop with the volume knob well advanced and the former popped completely out of the slot and didn't go back in, lodged on the edge. Open or short circuit means a new driver or rebuild, but a stuck cone might be resettable and you'd be back to normal. Specialists can repair speakers, and sometimes far cheaper than a new driver. [/QUOTE]
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tannoy speaker repair
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