Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

Re: Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

Dave Pluke said:
Whew! You had me doubting myself there for awhile ;) .




One EP4000, bridged into one 8 ohm BC18SW115 looks good on paper. Only way to know for sure is to give it a try.

Dave
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The 4 Ohm driver is a little less expensive, (about $25) is there a major issue using the 4 Ohm?
I ask because wouldn't a 4 ohm driver THEORETICALLY be more powerful?
I'm sure that's a stupid question, but I was also thinking $25 off lol.
:razz:
 
Re: Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

Eric Ward (Kayser Soze) said:
I ask because wouldn't a 4 ohm driver THEORETICALLY be more powerful?
Click to expand...

The driver itself wouldn't be more powerful, but the amp would send more power to a single 4 ohm speaker than to a single 8 ohm model.

I don't have experience with either the amp or speaker in question, so I don't know how "real" the published specs are or whether that would be more power than prudent. Hopefully, someone else will chime in.

Dave
 
Re: Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

It's more about match the amplifier and driver together, and depending on how the energy in the bass region behave(crest factor) in the mysic you will play through your system, your driver will either be driven to excursion or thermal limits and should be limited thereafter or you will possibly and eventually destroy them.

I'm not sure whether it's peak or rms wattage claimed in the ep4000 specs so I'm hesitant to recommend either 4 or 8 ohm models.
 
Re: Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

I would not want to build a set of Keystones with a circular saw. It could be done, but you will be spending hours sanding and filling jagged pieces of plywood with bondo or wood filler if you want a professional look, unless you have incredible freehand sawing skills. I don't have a table saw either, but I rented one for a day at Home Depot when I cut the pieces for my Smithers Wedges (there's a few pics of mine on the Coaxial Monitor collaboration thread). I built these with a regular butt joint and lots of Gorilla Glue, which would work for subs, but if you could get a cabinet builder to build them with rabbet and dado joints (which allow more glue in the joint and help lock the pieces together) you will get a theoretically stiffer and stronger cabinet. Because of the large pieces of wood needed for a Keystone, having a helper keep the boards straight as you are cutting them with a table saw is highly recommended. Even using the right tools like a table saw, the more experienced you are, the better the results will be.

As far as the B&C 18sw115's go, they will take an incredible amount of power. You will get a decent amount of push from these Keystone cabinets if you power them with your Behringers (due to the efficiency of the cabinet) but they would be capable of more. I have the 4 ohm version in my Danleys which I would recommend if you are just going to build 2 bass bins and get the most out of the amps you have, but there again, you'd still get a decent push out of the 8 ohm version...you'd just be leaving more capability "on the table" vs. maxing them out.
 
Re: Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

One last quick question about the fabrication of the Keystones.
If I wanted to add casters and a handle, (http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-right-angle-steel-bar-speaker-cabinet-handle--262-820, http://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-w2001-2-recessed-caster-pair--262-282) do I have to "calculate" that into the build?
My woodworker guy asked me this when I gave him the parts, he said: "Do you know if these will affect cabinet volume, and if we need to compensate for that?"
I wasn't sure if the tiny changes made by adding these "accessories" would translate into anything noticeable.
I'm not a huge: "it must be PERFECT!!!!!" type person, but I figured I would like to know.
Can't wait to hear these beasts when they are done.
Cheers.
-Eric
 
Re: Another "WHAT SHOULD I GET/BUILD" THREAD

Eric Ward (Kayser Soze) said:
One last quick question about the fabrication of the Keystones.
If I wanted to add casters and a handle, (http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-right-angle-steel-bar-speaker-cabinet-handle--262-820, http://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-w2001-2-recessed-caster-pair--262-282) do I have to "calculate" that into the build?
My woodworker guy asked me this when I gave him the parts, he said: "Do you know if these will affect cabinet volume, and if we need to compensate for that?"
I wasn't sure if the tiny changes made by adding these "accessories" would translate into anything noticeable.
I'm not a huge: "it must be PERFECT!!!!!" type person, but I figured I would like to know.
Can't wait to hear these beasts when they are done.
Cheers.
-Eric
Click to expand...
The handles would only affect the volume slightly.
Casters would have to stick out the back, not a good idea.
Just noticed an oversight in the plans, the bottom of part "F" is 89 degrees, the front of "G" is a 5 degree angle, the back of "G" is 3 degrees as shown in post #478. Unfortunately, those angles were not shown in the plans in post #487.
 
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