Driver Break In In Procedure?

Ben Lawrence

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Mar 2, 2011
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I just picked up a few 15" drivers thanks to the advice of some fellow members here. What I am wondering is if the work in is necessary for proper break in. I know I can just plug and play but is it worth sending a sine wave or the like for a break in? If so what is the procedure some of you guys use?
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

I would agree with Bennett.

I think the only reason you would break them in is if you were going to be doing critical measurements on them, just in case there was going to be the slightest difference between brand new, and general use.

And Art is the kind of guy who would be doing critical measurements on speakers.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

One last noob question. The rubber on the magnet assembly. I am assuming this stays on? All my other drivers I have pulled do not have this. Wondering if it might be just added for shipping.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

One last noob question. The rubber on the magnet assembly. I am assuming this stays on? All my other drivers I have pulled do not have this. Wondering if it might be just added for shipping.

I always took mine off. Back in the day I used a lot of JBL raw drivers in cabinets I built. In the factory cabinets from JBL that used the same driver-they drivers did not have the rubber "protectors".

As far as I know they are there to protect the magnets during shipping/handling.

Magnets can get very hot during operation-it takes a while to heat them up. Without the rubber "covers" there is more area exposed to the air-so more cooling can happen. The protectors act as a blanket-keeping some of the heat in.

How much-I am not sure and have not done any testing-but any extra cooling can't be a bad thing.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

Alright thanks. They are mediocre at best and will be in a cabinet crossed over around 90/100. Just thought I had heard some folks talking about break in at some point.

There was a time, when RCF used Kapton voice coil formers for low frequency transducers ( 15/542 ) and for these they recommended a thermal break in with about 60% of AES power ( maybe Im wrong on the number )
I learned it the hard way to heed this.

Maybe from this arose the idea of breaking in woofers, for newer transducers I have not seen this kind of recommendation again,
but if you want to do this anyway with a sine wave, use something below free air resonance of the transducer to avoid DC Displacement effect

Uwe
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

I just picked up a few 15" drivers thanks to the advice of some fellow members here. What I am wondering is if the work in is necessary for proper break in. I know I can just plug and play but is it worth sending a sine wave or the like for a break in? If so what is the procedure some of you guys use?

Ben,

To play contrain slightly, the T/S parameters of the drivers will tend to settle asymptotically as the suspension compliances (surround and spider) change over the initial operating period. I wouldn't suggest overnight, but an hour of band limited pink noise that gets the driver excurting to some reasonable fraction of Xmax will generally help settle the T/S parameters closer to those on the datasheets. Most driver manufacturers beat on them for a while before measuring the T/S parameters.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

Phil, Bennett, others... A month later, after an equal amount of playing time, would the T/S parameters eventually wind up being the same with or without this break-in procedure, or does the driver have some sort of "memory" that is permanently affected by the first few hours of use?
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

Phil, Bennett, others... A month later, after an equal amount of playing time, would the T/S parameters eventually wind up being the same with or without this break-in procedure, or does the driver have some sort of "memory" that is permanently affected by the first few hours of use?

In my experience they settle to the same values barring an extreme excursion that damages some aspect of the compliances.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

In my experience they settle to the same values barring an extreme excursion that damages some aspect of the compliances.

And a month is much too long a time period, probably an hour is realistic.

I thought this was pretty cool at AES 2011: AES E-Library » Mechanical Fatigue and Load-Induced Aging of Loudspeaker Suspension

And here's something else on suspensions for free: http://www.klippel.de/uploads/media/AN26-Suspension_part_measurement.pdf
 
Ben,

They're going to break in one way or another, no need to do it yourself. Good drivers are very consistent in their long term suspension behavior. Mediocre drivers... you're just taking life off the suspension.

Bennett,

Do driver manufacturers generally do some sort of 'burn in' as part of the manufacturing process? I feel like the end user shouldn't have to worry about this sort of thing.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

Do driver manufacturers generally do some sort of 'burn in' as part of the manufacturing process? I feel like the end user shouldn't have to worry about this sort of thing.

Well, we don't drive woofers hard in manufacturing. I can't speak for anyone else, of course.

The TS parameters listed for a product are based on the average of a group of drivers that have been worked. Production line TS measurement is of a new unit, of course, but you never see that data... it's just for our internal QC. Even if we wanted to work in drivers, running each woofer that goes down the assembly line for an hour is infeasible. We'd have to double our production space just to accommodate the extra stations, and build a large sound deadening chamber to house them.

Since in use the woofer will approach its long term parameters very quickly, it's really only an issue for box tuners who need a representation of the woofer's long term behavior. If they want to see how their model behaves with a hot voice coil, too, by the time they get it warmed up the suspension will probably be in the ballpark of how it will behave for the life of the woofer.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

And a month is much too long a time period, probably an hour is realistic.

I thought this was pretty cool at AES 2011: AES E-Library » Mechanical Fatigue and Load-Induced Aging of Loudspeaker Suspension

And here's something else on suspensions for free: http://www.klippel.de/uploads/media/AN26-Suspension_part_measurement.pdf


Another from Klippel ( possibly the same as your AES link )

http://www.klippel.de/uploads/media/KLPPEL_Fatigue_and_Aging_of_suspension_AES_NY_2011.pdf




 
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Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

Bennett,

Do driver manufacturers generally do some sort of 'burn in' as part of the manufacturing process? I feel like the end user shouldn't have to worry about this sort of thing.

I know some "high end" manufacturers do. But that cost is passed on to the customer. Is it worth it? I bet most don't think so.
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

I know some "high end" manufacturers do. But that cost is passed on to the customer. Is it worth it? I bet most don't think so.
I recall the HF driver burn in room at the old Electro Voice factory in Buchanan, Michigan.
Every driver was subjected to fairly long and hard test period, then tested to make sure it fell within spec.
I still have 10 drivers purchased shortly after that (around) 1990 visit, all working fine with the original diaphragms.

Unfortunately, seems the end user now gets to be the quality control testers for many companies.

Art
 
Re: Driver Break In In Procedure?

I think Art Welter recommended 20Hz overnight...be careful, as they loosen up they will start to bottom out! Supervise them carefully.

Silas ,

I may have made that recommendation, though that long of a time is not needed if the speaker is run in at around Xmax. Filtered pink noise works well for break in, but VLF sine waves “git er done” faster.

You may recall my recommendation from around January 2009, when you were designing your cabinets for the Eminence 4015LF, which was first released in 2006.

With a rated 9 mm Xmax, Xlim 15.5 and 700 watt power handling, it was a pretty potent speaker for the time.

That said, Eminence really messed me up with that speaker.

In January of 2008, I bought one for evaluation, while doing the run in process, found it distorted badly at 11 mm peak to peak , and clacked at 16 mm P to P, which should mean the Xmax if rated one way should be around 4.5 and Xlim 7.75 mm, half of the actual rating.
It was not clacking when I started the break in, it had loosened up a bit and started clacking after a while.

Having never actually measured excursion carefully before that point, I mistakenly concluded that Eminence Xmax rating was P to P, but Xmax is one way, a 9 mm rated Xmax speaker should go 18 mm P to P before distortion at Fs (cone resonance).

The 4015LF sounded fine below 11 mm P to P.
I had owned Eminence Lab 12s speakers since 2003, running them in FLH (front loaded horn) cabinets, I was not satisfied with the low frequency output unless used in multiples.
That led to the design of the dual BR Lab 12 cabinets which reused the old FLH cabinet shells:
http://soundforums.net/diy-audio/134-free-sub-plan-dual-lab12-front-loaded-welter-systems.html

I tried different tunings in the actual box until I got the best combination of low frequency without too much excursion above Fb, laboring under the assumption that the speakers Xmax and Xlim were half of what they actually were.

Because the 4015LF distorted at a much lower volume and needed a larger box compared to the Labs 12s, I did not pursue cabinet design with it too far, put it in a small drum fill.

As it turned out, there was something in the gap of the 4015LF (probably some glue from the magnet structure) which was eliminated by plenty of kick drum.

After realizing that I was wrong in my Xmax assumption, I retested the 4015LF, it measured within factory specifications, very little distortion until exceeding Xmax, a full 18 mm P to P, far less distortion than it originally had at only 11 mm P to P.

On 2/15/11 purchased a pair of B&C18SW115-4 from Pro Sound Service (thanks Charlie !), broke them in with a 50 volt, 11 Hz sine wave to a series pair for two hours to loosen up the suspension.

Open air, they still did not exceed the 15 mm Xmax , they started at about 25 mm P to P, loosened up to 27 mm two hours later.
As has been noted before, break in of woofer does not cause much change, and most of that occurs within the first few hours.

Also did a test at about 55 V sine wave into a single B&C18SW115-4, about 750 watts.
Didn’t get an accurate excursion measurement as I swept down from 60 Hz, the speaker walked around quite a bit at certain frequencies.
It hopped off the speaker cords it was sitting on, which had kept the vent open during the 2 hour break in.
As a rough guess the cone was moving 30 mm P to P down at 10 Hz, still hardly exceeding Xmax, and only half of it’s 60 mm P to P (30) Xlim.

Been using them in my Keystone subs, which are six dB more efficient than bass reflex cabinets for the last year. The pair have replaced eight Lab 12s, giving more bass output, and around twice as much (10 dB more) upper bass.

The pair of 18”, driven with about 2000 watts each, are used under twenty eight 8” mid drivers, and ten EVDH1AMT 3” diaphragm HF drivers.
No FOH engineers have asked for more bottom so far.

Silas, if you decide to upgrade from JBL 2268, the BC18SW115 or the new lower cost ceramic magnet BC18SW115 would be a good choice.


Art