Onward, upward.

Steve Tarak

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Jan 12, 2011
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Like Schulz from Hogan's Hero's - I know nothing. Zip. Nada. About DMX. I'm learning. Am I correct in understanding that one channel would control one light color, or one direction of motor control, dimming, on or off, etc.

For example, a moving head, simple type, 10 channel. RGBW. One channel each for RGBW, one for left rotation, one for right rotation, one for tilt up, one for down (or is one used for both), one for on, one for off, etc?

Ready to learn. Keep it simple. I only have half a left thumb.

Bald but beautiful,

Steve
 
Re: Onward, upward.

Steve, you've got a grip already. Philips has a decent primer, sorry for the long URL but I can't seem to edit it and make it work....

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...jpZVoL_SA&sig2=ujj36PRat8WCtqyW2cADWA&cad=rja

Doug Fleenor has some more info on his website, too. Call him "Dr. DMX." My advice is always use real DMX or AES/EBU data cable (they're fundamentally the same) and avoid using mic cables.

Have fun, good luck.

Tim "I hate lights" Mc
 
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Re: Onward, upward.

You've got it right, generally speaking Red = Address 1, Green = 2, Blue = 3, White = 4, X movement = 5, Y movement = 6, Strobe = 7, gobo =8, Zoom = 9 and Intensity = 10. Granted every channel could be something else its very manufacturer and fixture specific. The link tim sent is very good, Doug is an amazing guy and knows his stuff. Either way you shouldn't get too focused on DMX (such as PHD focus) since things are moving towards more network type instead of signal chain systems.

Edit: Or you could have a very simple setup like my par cans, 1= Red 2= blue 3= green, 4= is supposed to be intensity, and 5= strobe.

The intensity doesnt actually work with these cheep chinese knock offs but still usable.

Another thing to note is each address carries a data package ranging from 0-255 this is the value the fixture sees, we may see percentage, gobo images, colors, or even that raw data.
 
Re: Onward, upward.

Hi Steve. The other guys have given good info. One small correction to your post would be that generally channels describe absolute values, rather than movement commands. Your post said "one for left rotation, one for right rotation". That's generally not how they work. Rather, one channel would describe the absolute position in the potential axis of movement. For example: for pan, the 256 steps of that DMX channel would be mapped around the 540 degrees of rotation (or whatever range your fixture has) - meaning every time I send the command "146" on the pan channel, the light would move to whatever position 146 corresponded to.

Most lights use a "coarse" channel and a "fine" channel for things like position, which then gives 65000 potential positions across the range of motion, rather than just the 256 possible steps with one channel.

As Tim said, using real DMX cable is good, and usually a terminator is required at the end of the line. Depending on cable length, there is a limit to the number of devices you can chain before the signal gets too degraded to use. I can tell you from experience this past weekend that 700' of DMX cable and 20 devices was too much - I had to split my line by using a second "universe" (another output with a unique set of 512 more DMX channels). Optionally, I could also have used a DMX splitter http://www.dfd.com/splitters.html which regenerates the signal and provides multiple outputs.

Understanding the DMX protocol is really simple - 512 channels per universe, 256 values (0-255) per channel. Understanding how to control complicated fixtures and program them to do useful things in reasonable amounts of time is much less simple. Getting a good controller makes all the difference here.

At the low end, some reasonable controllers are:
Elation Show Designer 1 and 2
various computer software

In the medium end, the ETC SmartFade ML is good, or Chamsys MagicQ software (lots of functionality, close to free)

At the high end are the Hogs, the Jands Vista, and a few others.

I'm not much of a lighting guy. I came from standard dimmers and theatrical style boards. I made the jump to LED wash fixtures, and very quickly outgrew a theatrical style board. After a couple gigs, I'm just starting to find my way around my SmartFade ML, and am getting pretty excited about what it can do.
 
Re: Onward, upward.

Great info here.

I'm leaning towards computer based control at this point. The Compulive has my attention. For the price, it would serve me well on the local level. The Vista was very nice, as are some of Martins offerings.

Seems best to determine what type of lights and effects I'd like to achieve first, then choose the control type, make the purchase and begin to work with the software (pretty sure one universe would cover what I'm beginning to envision). Then consider how to design, for a top local act, a very modular, scaleable system with quick setup and a mix of static and movers. Want deep color washes on the stage, highlights on six members, some laser effects, and a well planned mix of mood and "dazzle" using cost effective and efficient fixtures. These are small to mid scale shows, some with limited staging logistics.

One of the first ideas is utilizing quick setup, movable textilene screening panels, and color washing them along with a few special effects thrown on them as the night progresses. Washing them w/ something that will produce intense, deep colors, RGBA, something of design similar to a colorbar.. I'd love LED panels also, but realize I have a kings appetite on a knights budget.

Appreciate any and all input on fixtures, ideas used that have been quck and effective, and would definately accept and appreciate a love offering and any spare change you find in the couch to finance the monster that has risen.

thanks again,
Steve
 
Re: Onward, upward.

I agree - I've found painting architecture or a scrim infinitely more interesting than just putting color casts on people on stage.

You can read my threads on my quest for LED pars. I'm satisfied with what I found, especially since 16 of them will fit in a quater-pack case.

Can't help you with any spare change - I spent my life savings on lunch today.
 
Re: Onward, upward.

MagiQ from Chamsys is a good deal for computer control. When you need to move on to a real console, their units operate just like the software. It is only about $100 or so for the dongal (USB to DMX) and the software is free.
We tried the MyDMX software but it is single thread... only one chase at a time.