preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

John McLeod

John McLeod

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Sep 9, 2015
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Has anyone used it and is it worth $200/large cabinet or $150 for small
They say I dont have to do anything to the cabinets. .dont have to fill in screw holes or prime it
Yet
Ive read you do...??
They also said it will bounce off walls without damaging the cabinets

Anyone use them
Worth it?
Thanks gents
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

Marjan Milosevic said:
Not sure about that. I have some boxes coated with similar paint and almost all imperfections do stay visible.
Click to expand...
Agreed.

When we had the Matterhorn sub done in lineX (Over 2000lbs of it), they told us we did not have to fill in a couple of the "extra" holes in the top.

THEY WERE WRONG!!!!!!!!

It leaked and ruined several thousand dollars worth of drivers.

It does not need to be super smooth, but I would say the holes need to be filled in to pretty flush.

Bondo (body filler) is cheap-quick and easy to work with.
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

Line-X is a polyurethane finish, generally applied with a texture. It has some tensile strength of its own, which can help improve overall strength under certain circumstances, but probably won't help much on decent hardwood plywood (which already has the strength of the lamination glue and the wood grain). As far as filling imperfections, don't count on it. Finish systems generally aim for a consistent coating thickness, so unless the person with the spray gun applies additional coats to the holes (unlikely), you're relying on the texture to hide the screw holes.

Like with many things, there's no magic, only hype.
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

What they said.
I think the Line-X people have a different perspective than we do. They want a tough finish, that is waterproof.
Will your cabinet be waterproof if you don't sand and finish it? Yes.
Will it protect the wood? Yes.
Will every imperfection show? Yes.

How bad will this bug you? During a show the lights should be on the band.
It bugs me when I take the covers off and see stuff that only I know is an imperfection in my work.
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

I've been using Line-X for years.

First, how big are those cabinets? Pricing seems a bit high to me, unless they are huge. Not much to be done about it though, I doubt you can go across town to another Line-X shop for a competitive quote.

Cabinets need to be sanded with no finer than 60 grit sandpaper. Rough up the old finish if these are a restoration project. Typically holes larger than 1/16" diameter may telegraph thru the finish and be visible. Woodworking joints along edges may show with a smaller gap since they tend to be long-same actually the same applies for exposed plywood edges sometimes, even Baltic birch, so you may want to fill them as well. Vacuum and blow the cabinet off of dust really well.

Although I've had no problems with it, bondo is not the first recommended filler when Line-X is the top coat. Durham's Rock Hard putty is one of the suggested fillers.

I also soften the edges on cutouts like speaker holes-the Line-X tends to catch on sharp edges really well, causing an abrasive edge build up that may get in the way or just cause a scraped knuckle or finger cut.

Let the cabinet dry out. If it is new, a week or more in a heated room to let the wood glue fully cure. Even if it is an old cabinet, letting it sit in a well heated room for a week is helpful.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

JOhn
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

Im going to have
6x24 inch cabinets
6x double 18s
6x double 15 and horn tops20160320_115411.jpg20160308_144244.jpg
Looking at $3000+
Alot of money....
Is it worth it...

So strip down all handles and plates but can the wheels stay on??
What a pain to remove
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

Hi John:

So far I've done about 22 cabinets in Line-X. Great finish. Make sure the boxes are as smoothly finished as they would be if getting painted-Line-X will show all the imperfections. It will also add weight to the speakers. Make sure the edges of the boxes where the handles go are not sprayed: it makes the openings smaller and you will have to pound the handles in with a rubber mallet. Also take all the hardware off the boxes: Line-X is sprayed on and will cover anything that is attached to the wood.

-Mark
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

John McLeod said:
They say I dont have to do anything to the cabinets. .dont have to fill in screw holes or prime it
Yet
Ive read you do...??


Anyone use them
Worth it?
Thanks gents
Click to expand...
We have used Line-X on a number of cabinets and racks. I believe it is THE most durable finish you will get. The first box we had done was an EV wedge that was originally carpeted over wafer-wood. It looked SO bad it had to be refinished and recoated. From that point on, all boxes heading to the Line-X shop were filled and sanded to a very consistent finish. Since then, they have all held up very well, and it's been over a decade for some. Like others have said, remove all hardware. If the recesses end up getting too filled with Line-X to properly accommodate the re-installation of the hardware, the Line-X can be trimmed back with a utility knife.
 
Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets

I have built about 60 cabinets in total now between wedges, and subs. I use a product called U-pol Raptor. you can spray it on yourself and though it may not be 100% as good as line-x the fact that you have the ability to patch it at the shop every once in a long while makes it nice. It is also about 1/4 the price.

the product comes with the sprayer all you need is a decent sized air compressor. In most instances and it goes for about $100 per gallon. I am able to cover about 2.5-3 of my double 18 subs with one gallon, or about 12 of my single 12" wedges.

That being said I do sand (80 grit), Fill in fastener holes, and prime my boxes before applying.

Here is a quick detail shot of one of the sides of the sub.

sub - 1.jpg
 
Well
I went with duratex and still have enough to finish my other 4 MCL PD-124 & 2 MCL T-215
​​​​​Plus I'm making my monitors....consisting of 4 MCL 212M (2×12 + JBL 2445) AND 4 MCL 115M
20160611_161748.jpg 20160508_171831.jpg 20160507_153633.jpg
 
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