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<blockquote data-quote="John Halliburton" data-source="post: 148511" data-attributes="member: 8">Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinetsI&#039;ve been using Line-X for years.First, how big are those cabinets?&nbsp; Pricing seems a bit high to me, unless they are huge.&nbsp; Not much to be done about it though, I doubt you can go across town to another Line-X shop for a competitive quote.Cabinets need to be sanded with no finer than 60 grit sandpaper.&nbsp; Rough up the old finish if these are a restoration project.&nbsp; Typically holes larger than 1/16&quot; diameter may telegraph thru the finish and be visible.&nbsp; Woodworking joints along edges may show with a smaller gap since they tend to be long-same actually the same applies for exposed plywood edges sometimes, even Baltic birch, so you may want to fill them as well.&nbsp; Vacuum and blow the cabinet off of dust really well.Although I&#039;ve had no problems with it, bondo is not the first recommended filler when Line-X is the top coat.&nbsp; Durham&#039;s Rock Hard putty is one of the suggested fillers.I also soften the edges on cutouts like speaker holes-the Line-X tends to catch on sharp edges really well, causing an abrasive edge build up that may get in the way or just cause a scraped knuckle or finger cut.Let the cabinet dry out.&nbsp; If it is new, a week or more in a heated room to let the wood glue fully cure.&nbsp; Even if it is an old cabinet, letting it sit in a well heated room for a week is helpful.Hope this helps.Best regards,JOhn</blockquote>

[QUOTE="John Halliburton, post: 148511, member: 8"] Re: preparation for Line-X bedliner on my cabinets I've been using Line-X for years. First, how big are those cabinets? Pricing seems a bit high to me, unless they are huge. Not much to be done about it though, I doubt you can go across town to another Line-X shop for a competitive quote. Cabinets need to be sanded with no finer than 60 grit sandpaper. Rough up the old finish if these are a restoration project. Typically holes larger than 1/16" diameter may telegraph thru the finish and be visible. Woodworking joints along edges may show with a smaller gap since they tend to be long-same actually the same applies for exposed plywood edges sometimes, even Baltic birch, so you may want to fill them as well. Vacuum and blow the cabinet off of dust really well. Although I've had no problems with it, bondo is not the first recommended filler when Line-X is the top coat. Durham's Rock Hard putty is one of the suggested fillers. I also soften the edges on cutouts like speaker holes-the Line-X tends to catch on sharp edges really well, causing an abrasive edge build up that may get in the way or just cause a scraped knuckle or finger cut. Let the cabinet dry out. If it is new, a week or more in a heated room to let the wood glue fully cure. Even if it is an old cabinet, letting it sit in a well heated room for a week is helpful. Hope this helps. Best regards, JOhn [/QUOTE]

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