New DIY Mid High (90deg) - AKA PM90

cool man, really looking forward to building. just waiting on some funds to get the wood CNCd and will start. I'm probably gonna go for the RCF ND950s for now as well alongside the 12ND930 woofers. anyone got that mix installed?
 
At the risk of veering sidewise, I’ve got a Linea research 48M20 on evaluation at the moment. I’ve got to wire a patch panel and install some settings and take measurements. Will be using it in anger over the 22nd - 24th of this month. Will report back on my experiences if anyone is interested.
 
hey guys, I'm finding it hard to choose between the PM60 and PM90....I'm assuming the only different is the sound coverage? if so, I'm leaning towards the PM90 as i don't have the funds nor the van space for 4 PM60s. By the way, bloody amazing design, man!

I've already got 2 18sound 12ND930s so would be good if they worked well in the design as then i'd only need to buy another pair. Just wondering if anybody could sim it as I've never used Hornresp before. No worries if not.

Cheers,
Sal
Yes the 12ND930 should work very well, similar to the RCF.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sal mirabile
At the risk of veering sidewise, I’ve got a Linea research 48M20 on evaluation at the moment. I’ve got to wire a patch panel and install some settings and take measurements. Will be using it in anger over the 22nd - 24th of this month. Will report back on my experiences if anyone is interested.

Great amp although I am only using it on subs for now. Let me know your impressions on top end..
 
Hello all,
Been following this thread for a while now and its been a lot to absorb for a newb like my self. I've built some speakers before but haven't done much with DSP and even less with pro sound setups. I really want to tackle this build and could use some advice. Looking to start ordering parts so I'm not sure what is recommended as far as drivers at this time (many of the suggested drivers are not available to me in the USA. Would like to keep the total build cost around $3000 (drivers, materials and DSP.) Would like to use new drivers but I'm ok with used on the DSP, saw the used Clair unit that Max posted and that looks nice, not sure if I could get one where I am so open to suggestions on the DSP unit. Couple of questions:
1. Was wondering if the B&C DCX464 matches well with the HF950 if I can even find the HF950.
2. Suggestions for 12" alternatives? (can't find the RCF MB12N351s or 18Sound 12ND930s)
3. I assume you would need three channels of amplification per box if using a coax, is there a way to get that to two? Trying to keep my system as simple as possible

Thanks for any help
Paul
 
1, As far as I am aware they match fine. https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/horn-rcf-hf950-90x50-throat-1-4-inch-front-11-81-x-11-81-inch.html not sure where you are located but i am in New Zealand and there freight to NZ was quite dare and it was cheaper for me to use a freight forwarding service in the UK(as in they shipped to my service in teh UK and that service shipped them to me....)

2, I used these as did lots of other folks including peter in his 60 degree version, https://www.parts-express.com/bc-12ndl76-12-neodymium-woofer-speaker-driver--294-570

3, There is an off the shelve BMS passive crossover for the BMS 4594 that Peter said was a good unit. I have not seen one yet for the DCX464.
 
Thanks for the help guys, just ordered the hf950s to begin my journey on this build. Really looking forward to getting the rest of the components so I can begin making sawdust. Probably going to go with the 4594s with a passive crossover to keep the mid/top system to two amp channels per side plus another amp for the bass, so 3 amps instead of 4 (trying to keep cost down a bit and also not have to upgrade my electrical system at home). Will post updates as the build progresses.
 
Thanks for the help guys, just ordered the hf950s to begin my journey on this build. Really looking forward to getting the rest of the components so I can begin making sawdust. Probably going to go with the 4594s with a passive crossover to keep the mid/top system to two amp channels per side plus another amp for the bass, so 3 amps instead of 4 (trying to keep cost down a bit and also not have to upgrade my electrical system at home). Will post updates as the build progresses.
Hope the build goes great Paul. I really want to build a pair of these sometime, I just haven't had the time. Peter came up with a fabulous design (not just because it is "free", but by any pro standard). I'm sure they will serve you well once finished!
 
Good luck with the build Mate! Getting all my wood cut on Tuesday and putting them together on Wednesday. Can't wait.

Also gonna make the front horn baffle detachable. Getting those 12" drivers through that baffle looks pretty tight otherwise!
 
So got the build done yesterday. Looking good so far. It was surprisingly easy to put together! Next week they'll be wrapped and the horn chrome dipped so should look the part!
I haven't finished the horn baffle yet, hence why it's missing.

5AEB5BD7-0D49-4138-8B60-00D9111ECE1B.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 246258BA-357F-49F8-A376-57892488AF01.jpeg
    246258BA-357F-49F8-A376-57892488AF01.jpeg
    85.7 KB · Views: 206
  • C37C4AC6-1B8A-426A-8C9B-93BCFF460DCF.jpeg
    C37C4AC6-1B8A-426A-8C9B-93BCFF460DCF.jpeg
    81.9 KB · Views: 214
  • 942B702F-76E3-489A-9A86-D33A5C7770F5.jpeg
    942B702F-76E3-489A-9A86-D33A5C7770F5.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 217
My HF950s came from France to Pennsylvania, USA in 3 days which blows my mind. The B&C 12NDL76s I got from PartsExpress and should be here any day. Still can't decide between the BMS 4594HE and the B&C DCX464. I would prefer the 464 but I'm trying to keep my build to 2 amp channels per cabinet and I have no experience with building crossover networks.
 
Anyone here ever order from US Speaker? The website seems kind of generic but they seem to be the only place I can find the DCX464 and it is about $100 cheaper than the 4594HE for me so I'm leaning in that direction.
 
You can build a simple but effective passive crossover for the B&C DCX464 by placing a 0.315mH inductor in series with the MF driver, and a 4.86uF capacitor in series with the HF driver. Ideal values have been cheated away from the x-over point to closest 5% component.

I mean... it's not great but it "works."
 
Last edited: