New DIY Mid High (90deg) - AKA PM90

Has anyone used the 18 sound 12nmb1000 with the b&c dcx464 and the rcf hf950 horn on the pm90? If so I would very much appreciate getting the eq settings for the speaker. I’m suing a powersoft t604 and a t304. Thanks!!
 
Good morning everyone and best wishes for the new year! One question: has anyone ever tried the version with the RCF MB12n405? Are there any real advantages over the MB12n351s or is the higher power not very influential? Since the difference is a few tens of € per woofer, I wanted to know if it's worth buying the superior model!
thank you all
 
Good morning everyone and best wishes for the new year! One question: has anyone ever tried the version with the RCF MB12n405? Are there any real advantages over the MB12n351s or is the higher power not very influential? Since the difference is a few tens of € per woofer, I wanted to know if it's worth buying the superior model!
thank you all
It's been a long time since we looked into alternate drivers for this horn. On one hand, the 405 offers a significant increase in power handling (~2 dB), however one of the critical parameters for how the horn performs in the effective moving mass (Mms). I would suggest simulating the two in Hornresp to see how it performs.
 
Good morning everyone and best wishes for the new year! One question: has anyone ever tried the version with the RCF MB12n405? Are there any real advantages over the MB12n351s or is the higher power not very influential? Since the difference is a few tens of € per woofer, I wanted to know if it's worth buying the superior model!
thank you all
The 405 should work - the response is a bit bumpy and it will require more EQ to get it flat but at full power it would produce about 2 dB more SPL. Other drivers that look a good are Beyma's 12MC700 and Faital Pro 12FH520. I don't think these were available when I started this project.
 
Knowing that numerous alternatives to the PM90 have been suggested (thanks PM for all your responses) and trialed using many of these suggestions, it struck me that the design could make a rather good HiFi speaker (with accompanying subs) either using the recommended PA drivers (at 'sensible' levels) or alternatively, could be made even more suitable utilising drivers that would not be suitable for high output performance due to low efficiency or other issues. Has anyone on this forum ever considered this alternative use or even attempted a build a version using such drivers?
 
I don't know if anyone mentioned to yet but, RCF offers two horns that are interchangeable and have a cutoff frequency of 500Hz. The HF94(90x40) and the HF64(60x40) and I thought they would be the best approach for the DIY since I want the horns to be interchangeable. My only concern is that the HF94 is shallower that the HF950 (135 mm depth on the HF94 vs 210 on the HF950) and thus it would have less sensitivity? Could that be a scenario? The 60 degree version is deeper (180mm) so I'm not concerned about that
 
Been a long time working on these things for us... But we're getting pretty close now. Trial fit of all pieces is finished. Due to do the first round of glue in our next session - really excited. We have 4 x TH18's (driven by 18SW115) to pair with them. Will post again when the cabinets are glued up, and a final time after the paint.

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Curious as to how these curvatures have been implemented by people (how they made them), and also what this kind of implementation is doing for the box sonically; I'm guessing they do something similar to bass traps in a studio?

The way I read this is a sculpted section of dense foam placed in each corner where indicated.


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Curious as to how these curvatures have been implemented by people (how they made them), and also what this kind of implementation is doing for the box sonically; I'm guessing they do something similar to bass traps in a studio?

The way I read this is a sculpted section of dense foam placed in each corner where indicated.


View attachment 209739
Yes, they are intended to be sculpted out of dense foam. Their purpose is to prevent premature horn expansion. and keep the corner smooth. The smaller of the two is probably not needed (I didn't use it in mine). Rather than dense foam, I used PVC and expanding foam in mine, and others have used various wood bending techniques as well. How you fill that corner is up to you; whatever method seems the most manufacturable to you!
 
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Hey all im looking into building 3 of the pm90's, loaded with 2x rcf mb12n351 8ohm and bms 4594he 8/16ohm, not entirely sure what difference is between 16 ohm and 8hm.

Could someone recommend a good amplifier for a decent budget as well, i'm using a admark ad42 for my subs.

Thanks,
 
Hi people,

I'm planning to build few of this box.
I've sent the .dwg file to a professional but he told me that he can't open it.

Has someone experience that and have a solution ? or someone has an alternative working file ?

Thanks
 
Hi people,

I'm planning to build few of this box.
I've sent the .dwg file to a professional but he told me that he can't open it.

Has someone experience that and have a solution ? or someone has an alternative working file ?

Thanks
Find here the: 3D Plans

Few notes:
- The pockets are drawn without margin. If you cut them with a CNC mill, make sure to program it with bigger radius (like +0,5-1mm), otherwise you won't be able to fit in the panels during assembly. The wood will swell under the glue and fill in the gaps. I did not include any margin and this caused me a lot of pain, because I literally had to hammer in the panels under time pressure, once glue was applied.
- You might wanna correct the handle cutouts. These are based on PM/MW original choice, but I did not enjoy the handling. There are cheaper and more comfortable handles out imho, so you might choose different ones and adjust the cutout. Same goes for the Pole Mount.
- The position of the Pole Mount is not exactly positioned in center of gravity, as least for the combination of D
DCX464 + 12NDL76, my cabinets lean very slightly backwards.
- The Cutout for the Horn could be made a few mm smaller, so th bolt nuts have more grip. I found Max Warasilas measures quite tight. Maybe check again, if there is an official cutout specification.
 
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Re: New DIY Mid High




That sounds familiar ... I had a small PA in a bar that mostly booked D grade grunge and thrash bands. They would always complain it was not loud enough so I more or less removed the compressor/ limiter and fitted a diode clipper so it would sound distorted before any damage was done. After that they were happy.

Out of curiosity – approximately where to you cross the HFdriver(s) in the SH96HO and J1?
hello there. i was joking recently that we should add distortion to our sound system, to accomodate the aquired taste of the "special" crews. also adding upper harmonics to the subs would be handy to get a more loud and dirty sound. have you got a link to the build of such a diode clipper and how to figure out appropriate voltage limit?
 
hello there. i was joking recently that we should add distortion to our sound system, to accomodate the aquired taste of the "special" crews. also adding upper harmonics to the subs would be handy to get a more loud and dirty sound. have you got a link to the build of such a diode clipper and how to figure out appropriate voltage limit?
Maybe something like this could be useful to you. https://www.thomann.de/se/eventide_h9_max_harmonizer.htm
 
Maybe something like this could be useful to you. https://www.thomann.de/se/eventide_h9_max_harmonizer.htm
haha, well whilst your joking around, i am seriously considering adding effects so the system sounds as if the horns blow up any time. another train of thought is to put a bass shaker to a crate of empty bottles, so i can mix in additional rattle, to create an experience of earth shaking bass, whilst i can keep the pressure levels below damaging levels. after studying tekkno sound walls i've come to the conclusion that the sound the tekkno heads are looking for is partially defined by upper harmonics to the bass, that is rolled off sharp at 40Hz. this creates a sense of loudness i like to recreate in the DSP.
 
haha, well whilst your joking around, i am seriously considering adding effects so the system sounds as if the horns blow up any time. another train of thought is to put a bass shaker to a crate of empty bottles, so i can mix in additional rattle, to create an experience of earth shaking bass, whilst i can keep the pressure levels below damaging levels. after studying tekkno sound walls i've come to the conclusion that the sound the tekkno heads are looking for is partially defined by upper harmonics to the bass, that is rolled off sharp at 40Hz. this creates a sense of loudness i like to recreate in the DSP.
I'm actually sort of serious. I mean... if it's distortion that they want, why not try to make the best of it? I was thinking that it might be a good idea to route the signal through something that produces a customizable effect, possibly mainly consisting of even order harmonics. You know, distortion, but of the order that doesn't sound so harsh/out of tune. It would sort of be like adding a tube sound to your system, but only to the parts of it that you want to add it to, and in controllable amounts. It might be a good compromise between people who like a rough sound and people that like a clean sound. It might be worth to look into.
 
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