60 Degree DIY Mid Hi - AKA PM60

Raimonds Skuruls said:
Hello Friends,

Please take a look on Jack Regula`s review of APL TDA software. It may help you not to leave some error in your designs.
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Hi Raimonds,

I have to agree with Dave, I don't see what this adds to this discussion. You are doing APL TDA a pretty great disservice by making it appear to be the sort of software without the support necessary for real marketing, reviews, and user interest. Everyone is allergic to unwanted intrusions of commercial interests in their lives today, so why associate this software you clearly love with such disdain?

If you want to raise awareness of APL TDA you can do so in product reviews, or they could certainly buy some of our ad space.
 
Looking forward to loading them up
 

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Josh Ellis said:
Looking forward to loading them up
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Woooow. Nice! :)
Some questions that come to my mind (just to understand):
Can you remove the boxes that cover the handles (to enable installing the 12" drivers)?
Don't you need handles that allow you to carry the cabinets vertically?
Do you plan to transport the cabinets horizontally (because of the strips at the back)?


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Peter van Gils said:
Woooow. Nice! :)
Some questions that come to my mind (just to understand):
Can you remove the boxes that cover the handles (to enable installing the 12" drivers)?
Don't you need handles that allow you to carry the cabinets vertically?
Do you plan to transport the cabinets horizontally (because of the strips at the back)?


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Unfortunately I can't take the credit for building these, they were built by a local cab builder, but...

The boxes are removable to make it easier to fit the 12's. The handles are placed for a 2 man lift, probably not really needed but there's always a few of us setting up, these ones are also slightly wider and made out of 18mm so are heavier than the original. And yeah we will be laying them on their backs when transporting/storing.

Here are a few more pics of the build process...
 

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David Westom said:
Hi Peter,

What was the difference using the Xt1464 compared to the HF950, was there one?
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The patterns are of course different; HF950 - 90 x 50 Vs XT1464 - 60 x 50. The 1464 horn is deeper than the 950 and required the box depth to be increased which improved the LF performance slightly at the expense of box size. The 1460 is also slightly more efficient – about 2 dB, but is quite narrow for a 60 degree horn. It also sounds slightly better, I assume because of its smooth expansion, which unfortunately will not work if you need 90 degree of coverage.
 
Max Warasila said:
Re: 60 Degree DIY Mid Hi - They need a name ?

So another option I've been looking at is the possibility of making a powered version. The most obvious choice to me is the PWR-DSP3 from DSP4YOU/MiniDSP/Pascal. Most of the power outputs are right on par with the requirements of the DIY from what I'm reading, it allows for all the DSP processing, and only adds about 6kg of weight (not ideal, but it's not crazy compared to an amp rack). The main issue I'm foreseeing is where to put the damn thing - it's actually rather large and won't fit horizontally within the box.

Opinions, anyone? I skimmed through the previous pages of these threads in the past, and don't recall seeing this, but I could be beating a dead horse, so let me know.
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Ive also been looking at these for another project, Think ill just build a seperate enclosure for them as then it can be at the base of the stand or remote with the stage rack.
 
David Westom said:
Ive also been looking at these for another project, Think ill just build a seperate enclosure for them as then it can be at the base of the stand or remote with the stage rack.
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I've put multi-channel plate amps in my subs. They have a speakon (NL4) for connection to the tops. Works great. I use 4-channel Powersoft amps with DSP. The tops use 2 channels (BMS with passive filter) and 2 channels bridged on a B&C 18SW115 in a TH.


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Josh Ellis said:
Has anyone got the final PEQ settings and crossover points for these, would be much appreciated


Thanks
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I’m using the following crossover points -
  • 100Hz 24dB LR IIR
  • 650Hz 24dB LR FIR for the 60 degree box and 700Hz for the 90 degree. Depending on how loud you need to go you can lower the crossover frequency a little - 600 & 650Hz respectively.
  • 6K3 brick wall FIR
The PEQ setting will depend on what drivers (RCF, B&C, 4594, 4594HE, with or without the passive crossover) you are using and the final box design. My box has the back corners cut off and I’m using a Lake LM26. I think I’m the only person to cut the corners off.

What drivers are you planning to use?
 
I'm using the b&c drivers with the standard 8 ohm 4594 (not the he) and the passive xover between the hf/vhf. My box doesn't have the corners cut off and its a little wider than the original design, to fit the hf horn in.

I dont know how well known they are outside of the uk but I am using Pkn amps and a Linea Research DP2140 crossover, this crossover doesn't have the ability of FIR filters.
 
Im using the xe version, xe2500s on the 12"s and xe6000s on my bass section, I have a mc2 mc450 on the comps.

They're good sounding amps and are a lot cheaper than powersoft over here, but they're not 4ohm stable.
 
Max Warasila said:
PKN claims that the XE series is stable down to 2ohms, or at least the XE5002 is.
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Really I meant to say they don't recommend running them any lower than 4 ohms, their rated power drops off dramatically after 4 ohms, I believe the XE6000 is 3650w at 4 ohms but then goes down to 2200w at 2 ohms.

The XE5002 is their latest model that has been speciffically designed for 2 ohm loads.
 
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