re: Listening Get Together
I noticed a huge (12dB) hole around 1500Hz. Surely that isn't correct-so I called the manufacturer and spoke to the designer (no names will be mentioned here). He sent me his measurements-and they SHOWED THE SAME HOLE! Well that is a good start anyway-we both got the same data.
He said I just needed to put a 12dB boost and that would "fix" the problem. I didn't like doing that-so I went back to the shop and took apart one of the cabinets (another one for the next install) and redid the crossover to reduce the size of the dip to just a couple dB. So now a small boost was all that was needed to get it to where I wanted it.
You should not "willy nilly" go around "whacking away" at a system. Sometimes you have to dig a little bit deeper to get better results and not just jump at the first "obvious" answer.
Year ago we were doing the first install of a relatively famous manufacturers new cabinet design. It was a 3 way biamped cabinet-with a passive mid/high crossover inside.Great point Ivan. I remember my early days in audio when measurement systems were just beginning to catch on....I came to this realization while trying to push the limits of a mediocre DIY system. I thought I would just measure (RTA)the response of a much better system, and EQ my system the same way. The light went on when the 2 nearly identical responses from the 2 systems sounded nothing like one another. And that was just ON AXIS.......
:lol:
I'm not suggesting that Leland doesn't already realize this. Leland has told me a bit about these new cabs in the past, and I am interested to see more detailed information become available. Many great ideas started out as crazy ideas. I prefer "cautious optimism" as a modus operandi as opposed to outright skepticism.
I noticed a huge (12dB) hole around 1500Hz. Surely that isn't correct-so I called the manufacturer and spoke to the designer (no names will be mentioned here). He sent me his measurements-and they SHOWED THE SAME HOLE! Well that is a good start anyway-we both got the same data.
He said I just needed to put a 12dB boost and that would "fix" the problem. I didn't like doing that-so I went back to the shop and took apart one of the cabinets (another one for the next install) and redid the crossover to reduce the size of the dip to just a couple dB. So now a small boost was all that was needed to get it to where I wanted it.
You should not "willy nilly" go around "whacking away" at a system. Sometimes you have to dig a little bit deeper to get better results and not just jump at the first "obvious" answer.